Engine steady bar

Ok, if you have fitted Geary’s nylatron bushes and find at idle the car is very harsh (i did) then get the new adjustable one and swap them over asap, its just like driving with the standard one but without the massive amount of movement of the engine [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image]

I’m glad you like it, I’m having one fitted on Tuesday.

Tried out my new steady bar/bush today. It’s a big improvement over the standard arrangement. Throttle response is improved, and it’s solved a problem I’ve always had with backing off the power to change gear. It always seemed that the power did not drop off smoothly. I thought it was a sticking throttle, or a mapping/ECU problem. It must have been a result of the engine moving around.There is no noticeable harshness, just a bit of a vibration through the whole car when you start the engine (which I quite like).I’ve also had a Reverie carbon-fibre steering wheel, and a set of A048s fitted. The feedback through the steering is now fantastic.

Whats the steering wheel like for grip Brendan. i would imagine, from the ones i have seen anyway, that when your hands are hot and sweaty they could slip, not nice if you hit a bit of bump on 100+ corner!

What was the cost to buy/fit?I know what you mean about backing off Brendan.Ian [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]

Or how easy is it to fit oneself? Step by step instructions please :-)Just had to reweld my EBD manifold after 2000 (admittedly extreme use) miles - don’t want to have to do that too often…Cheers

The cost is about �50 from Geary, details are on www.eliseparts.com As for fitting, its quite easy if you have the standard manifold but lots of swearing if you have the EBD big bore.Right, remove the under trays and place the rear of the car on stands.Slide underneath with 2x 19mm spanners and piece of wood slightly longer than the jacked up height. Undo the bolt of the steady arm thats attached to the engine but dont remove it just yet. Get you arm and second spanner into the subframe over the nut and loosen the nut & bolt on the other end of the steady arm.Place the piece of wood at an angle and wedge it against the gearbox casing, this will hold the engine sill.Completely remove the bolt from the engine end, tilt the arm upwards and remove the the bolt from the subframe…If you have the standard manifold the bolt will come out easily, on the EBD it will get stuck, so undo the manifold flange at the CAT or CRP and remove the bolts. Push everything upwards and wedge that bit of wood in tight with the engine as high as it can go, the bolt can now be wriggled free. (hopefully!)Remove the old engine steady bar and adjust the length of the new one to match it but do not lock the locknut yet.Replace the the new arm into the subframe end first and get the bolt back in. Remove the wood and align the engine and arm up then insert the other bolt.Put the nuts on and tighten them up, then tighten the lock nut using a 22mm spanner.Reconnect the manifold (EBD only) to the rest of the exhaust system, start the engine and check for leaks on the exhaust.Remove the car from the stands and replace the undertrays.Go for a drive and enjoy [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image] BTw i could always fit it for you for a couple of beer tokens [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image][This message has been edited by Phil (edited 20 March 2003).]

Phil - YHM :-)Cheers

quote:Originally posted by Phil:Whats the steering wheel like for grip Brendan. i would imagine, from the ones i have seen anyway, that when your hands are hot and sweaty they could slip, not nice if you hit a bit of bump on 100+ corner!I was a bit unsure about that until I picked one up at the Lotus festival at Donington. My hands were a bit sweaty, and the wheel felt almost sticky. I don’t think slipping will be a problem. The price is hard to justify, but I just like it.

hmmmm yes, it would be hard for me to justify �500 on steering wheel, only one week left at work [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/frown.gif[/image]

Phil - is it me … am I just having a bad time …With the standard manifold I found the rear most bolt just about hits the flexi section and you have to angle it over the top of the flexi and then “unthread” it out - I got it out but it was not at all easy.New adjustable fitted OK though [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]Cant imagine what can go wrong with that now …

Phil - is it me … am I just having a bad time …With the standard manifold I found the rear most bolt just about hits the flexi section and you have to angle it over the top of the flexi and then “unthread” it out - I got it out but it was not at all easy.New adjustable fitted OK though [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]Cant imagine what can go wrong with that now …