Just had my insert engine mounts delivered. Do they just push in or do i need to get my spanners out? Things always end in tears when i open my tool box.
Rick
Get a box of Kleenex too
and some plasters… 
Which ones have you got?
Got the powerflex ones?
Rick
unbolt remove mounts, insert bushes and refit, or take to a specialist and pay them a small amount of cash whilst drinking their coffee 
That would be to easy. My misses says im such a bloke, like to make things hard as poss for myself. Haha what dose she no.
Rick
Anyone got any pics of them being installed? Just bein looking in my engine bay scrathing my head for the last 5 mins.
Rick
Work from under the car getting it reasonably high cos you’ll need room to use ratchets /spanners on the awkward access nuts + bolts … have a spare jack handy to adjust height of engine to align stuff and maybe a tiny smear of silicone grease to assist in fitting the mounts …
Not a difficult job but could require patience.
here you go mate
http://www.111hq.com/inserts/install.htm
however, i applied the following torque values as some values on the installation document were too high, values i found on Lotus talk, see source below
front mount: 55 Nm on all bolts
rear mount:
2 lower front: 25 Nm
2 lower rear: 52 Nm
central bolt: 93 Nm
source:
_Engine Mount Bolt Torques
I recently upgraded my lower engine mounts with inserts, and discovered that some of the torque settings in the instructions were incorrect (discovered the hard way - stretched bolts, but fortunately on the ones easiest to replace and that used nuts) . The big concern is that overtightened bolts can break under load. The torque settings are not listed in the service manual. So, I tried to examine the bolts to determine their size and class, and looked up the proper torque value for the bolt. Of course, this says nothing about what the female threads in the engine, transmission or the frame can handle, but the bolt specification is a start.
First, here are the two best references I could find on recommended torque for metric bolts. I liked the first one better, but the second does give some lubricated values. Unfortunately, there is a lot of variation in recommended torque settings out on the web, but these two sources seemed consistent with most, had more information, and in general appeared to be more reputable. You might want to save them to your computer in case the web sites vanish.
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/...rqueCharts.pdf
Metric Bolt Torque Table - CNCexpo.com
(By-the-way, Bolt Depot’s recommendations seemed consistently higher than other references, so I didn’t use them. Nor were they as complete in their specifications as compared to the others.)
I was upgrading the lower engine mounts. Here are the bolts I examined:
- Rear lower mount:
1a) mount to frame, rearmost pair (with nuts)
Class: 8.8 (says so on the bolt head)
Diameter: M10 (10 mm)
Pitch: 1.5 mm (thread spacing, which is how metric bolts are specified)
Plated (looks like zinc)
Recommended torque for this specification: 38.25 foot-lbs 52 NM
1b) mount to frame, forward pair (bolts into frame)
Class: 8.8 I think (not listed on the bolt)
Diameter: M8 (8 mm) I think. I forgot to measure it before installing, but it was definitly a size smaller than the other pair of bolts (1a).
Pitch: 1.25 I think (again, forgot to measure, but the threads didn’t seem as fine as a 1.00 pitch)
Plated (looks like zinc)
Recommended torque for this specification: 18.75 foot-lbs 25NM
(of course, you can’t fit a torque wrench in the space, so you just have to estimate your strength)
1c) big center bolt through mount
Class: 8.8 I think. (The only marking on the bolt head was a lower case b with a dot over it. I don’t know what that means, but Lotus generally doesn’t use the higher class bolts.)
Diameter: M12 (12 mm)
Pitch: 1.5 I think (measured it, but lost my note. This my best recollection.)
Plated (not sure with what)
Recommended torque for this specification: 69 foot-lbs 93 NM
\- Forward lower mount
2a) mount to transmission housing
Class: 8.8 I think. (The only marking on the bolt head was 11. I don’t know what that means, but Lotus generally doesn’t use the higher class bolts.)
Diameter: M10 (10 mm)
Pitch: 1.25
Plated (looks like zinc)
Recommended torque for this specification: 40.5 foot-lbs 55NM
(of course, you can’t fit a torque wrench in the space, so you just have to estimate your strength)
2b) big center bolt through mount
Class: 8.8 I think. (The only marking on the bolt head was 11. I don’t know what that means, but Lotus generally doesn’t use the higher class bolts.)
Diameter: M10 (10 mm)
Pitch: 1.25 I think (measured it, but lost my note. This my best recollection.)
Plated (not sure with what)
Recommended torque for this specification: 40.5 foot-lbs 55NM
It would be good if others could check the bolt measurements and classes, and add in the bolts I didn’t list, such as the upper side engine mount bolts.
The bolts I damaged were listed in 1a above. I ended up replacing them with higher class bolts (10.9), and torqued them to the appropriate specification for that class in the Imperial Supplies chart above_
Agreed on the torque values, I sheered one of the OEM cheese bolts
PS Use a pit 
The process is simple…
Lay on floor, get dirty and cold
Realise you need a jack/ramp/stands
Book car into JSR (other garages are available)
Watch as you drink their coffee and John (other mechanics can be used) take the skin of his knuckles
You pay a small bill and drive out clean and satisfied at a job well done
Was the first mod i did to my car in 2006.Made my own,i think to remove and replace mounts took about an hour.So no big deal.
Thanks for that guys. Going to do it this wkend all being well. Thanks again.
Rick
So here is the update. Did the mounts to day, the one nearer the front of the car went on fine the one near the exhaust not so fine. Could not get the rear bolts to line up and ended up stripping the threads on the inside on one of them…shit. So only got three bolts in. Any ideas anyone?
Rick
Told ya patience was needed !
Sorry … only kidding , if the thread on the bolt is stripped I’d try a new bolt and try to ensure It’s got a fair chance of running true into the hole ,by this I mean loosen the other 3 off a tad and use the aforementioned spare jack or a nearby crowbar to pursuade the hole to line up …
…
It’s not a disaster that you’ve only got 3 in out of 4 as they’ll more than likely suffice .
Its not the threads on the bolt is the inside threades that have gone. I tryed to re thread it but its to tight a space. Not sure what to do. Would anything like locktight work?
Rick
GO TO A SPECIALIST - probably cheaper in the long run!!
Sorted:) after much messing with 10mm socket and 10mm nut and bolt i have managed to re thread it and is now all back togeather.
Rick