Emerald and MAP sensor

The Oily Bits S1 Specific Topics
1

What is the best thing to do with the MAP sensor and vacuum pipe when connecting an Emerald ECU, can I just run the pipe from the fuel pressure regulator jumped to all the inlet tracts then terminated at the last one with no MAP sensor?

2

Yes you can, as the Emerald maping does not include the MAP as input.

You could use it, it’s just that Dave Wlaker when mapping does not use that section, and none of the maps you would find have the information of what to do with the sensor.

3

So where would I find the map sensor?

4

So where would I find the map sensor?

I think you need a map for that.

5

Have no glove box, have no map…so wheres the sensor then???

6

Subtlety, eh Pesky?


Just follow one of the vaccuum hoses to the left, one of those relay-like thingies on the left rollbar strut, close to where the black ball thingy is
The one with the vaccuum connection.

7

I see, is that ball thingy needed. I see Steve Greens is removed. What does the ball do. (Pesky enters stage left with a witty comment)

8

Serious answer - I think it is something to with compensating for changes in atomospheric pressure eg for when driving in the Alps.

Either that, or it’s an early GPS thingy copied from these beauties at Menwith Hill:

[image]http://www.outandoutnutter.co.uk/mtcp/images/menwith1_jpg.jpg[/image]

9

Thats the map sensor, what about the big black ball?

10

It’s for the power braking assist



Naaah, seriously it’s only a vaccuum reservoir, needed to stabilize the vacuum pulses that go to the Fuel pressure regulator.

If like in my car (with an Emerald) your FPR is fixed, you don’t need it.
But i’d keep it if I was using the Lotus ECU and the vaccuum line to the FPR.

11

So where would I find the map sensor?

MAP = manifold absolute pressure sensor.

[image]http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/DSC04777.jpg[/image]

and is the upper right hand unit. The other being the Barometric Pressure sensor (BARO). You can remove everything from the vacuum reservoir through to the resonator actuator valve. The MAP sensor is just replumbed to connected to the inlet tracts and finally the fuel pressure regulator.
In terms of where it all fits into place then this should help:

[image]http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/Vacuumreservoircircuitdiagram.jpg[/image]

12

Uldis,
Have you just run the pipe from the fuel pressure regulator jumped to all the inlet tracts then terminated or just terminated at the pressure regulator and sealed the inlet tract ports?
How is you FPR set what changes to the fuel supply side have you made?
Thanks

13

This is interesting i’ve never seen the locking solenoid valve, charging solenold or resonator valve actuator. I’m thinking this was removed on the 190 upgrade. The black ball thingy was only connected at the vaccuum inlet. (Steve they don’t seem to be in your tray of upgrade take offs either)

So I have now set it up as follows.

The fuel reg is T-pieced into the first TB holes. The TB holes are then linked (as in Uldis’s pic on the booker track web site) APART from the last which are T-pieced to the MAP sensor. I’m yet to see if it runs ok, if it does or doesn’t i’ll let you know!!!

Place your bets now

14

Uldis,
Have you just run the pipe from the fuel pressure regulator jumped to all the inlet tracts then terminated or just terminated at the pressure regulator and sealed the inlet tract ports?
How is you FPR set what changes to the fuel supply side have you made?
Thanks

The FPR is basically not connected to anything, just to air.
Each of the two inlets on each TB are jumped together with a U pipe (basically one of the little pieces from the previous plumbing.

My FPR is not an adjustable one Since I have a digital fuel pressure gauge, I just followed the trick mentioned on Dave Walker’s website of pressing the original FPR until the correct pressure is chieved.
Basically you are deforming the metal housing in order to compress the inner spring and this will provide more pressure.

This is paired with a stronger pump. Single stage instead of dual, this posed a few problems but I made it work finally, sill single stage but I don’t get any fuel surge. That one has a lockout pressure of 8 Bar.
This mod was needed because my engine was running dangerously lean after the rebuild (injectors at 100% open 500 rpm before redline), the original fuel pump couldn’t keep up.

Otherwise there are no swirl pots or any extra plumbing. Looks very plain, you can check it out at Donny if you’re there.

15

They way I connected above was not correct. All you have to do is:

  1. Come out of the fuel pressure reg

  2. T into the TB holes as normal

  3. Connect to the MAP Sensor

  4. Block the remaining holes in the TB

How simple was that!!!