I received a recorded delivery letter this morning from EliseParts with the following alert:Re: Toe Link KitWe have received a letter from our suppliers to inform us that bearings which were supplied to us in May 2002 with the part number TSMX8T and batch number 100559398 have been recalled by the manufacturer.This is a precautionary measure and may not be relevant to you.Could you please check at your earliest convenience, whether the RH rod end bearings contain this batch number (potentially 2) If yes, please inform me and I will issue replacements pending the return of the original recalled items. To identify the bearings in question, look for the batch directly under the part numbers show on the bearing head.The supplier has confirmed that should there be any additional expenditure incurred, they would as you to submit this in writing to assist in claiming.We apologise for any incovenience this may cause but feel sure that you will understand that the safety issue is of paramount importance.Joy PowellEliseParts"—I seem to remember that it was Brannan’s RH EliseParts rear toe link that let go at Anglesey (am I right ?) which nearly ended in a horrible accident. (overlooking the irony that they were replaced because they were supposed to be stronger than the Lotus originals !)I’m going to check mine later today…
It wasn’t the actual rod end that broke on Brannans toe link - the bolt through the hub had sheared … I have a picture of that if anyones really that interested [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image]Quite why the bolt sheared could be anyones guess, but I would always use good quality bolts, not overtighten them and replace every few times they have been torqued up.But its good to see a responsible action by Elise parts [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]
Could a failed bearing cause the bolt to shear ?
ah ha - i was wondering which rod ends Geary used, but those bearings are 1/2 x 5/8 and not M10 !!About ï¿½17 + vat each plus a bit of stainless rod…hmmmm can make your own set for around ï¿½100 rather than ï¿½300 +vat.I found some M10 bearings last night whilst researching making my own, i will let you know how i get on.Phil[This message has been edited by Phil Davies (edited 18 January 2003).]
DavidI doubt it very much, the rod end would (probabaly) just be loose in its socket - resulting in play and Brannan was back on the track later that day with a new bolt …I think Brannans problem was either a poor quality bolt ( i would only use 12.9 on suspention parts like this ) or overtightening. What it does show though is how much force is put through that link and how critical it is, that bolt is taking the force from the hub and transfering it via the rod end into the chassis - so it must be quite loaded up … I understand that others have had problems with Lotus’s own “uniball” kit - I would like to know what those were as well
Phil !!I’m also looking at making my own !! We have full machining capability here ( lathe, mill, etc and a rod with some LH and RH threads is no problem at all … I made my parts for the Mini - we even tried Titanium but its a bitch to machine I can tell you.All I need to know is the length of the bar …I was also thinking of using 1/2 inch joints as they are the most common, but then you have to make up the conical spacers with a sleeve to get to the M10 that is the bolt diameter - right ? So that means that sleeve is only 1.3 mm thick per side and then they need to be quite accurate for when you clamp it together … not a problem but its a bit “thin”.Does Lotus use an M10 rod end ? certainley that would make life easier, but I would want to use one with a high load capability.If you want the rods, spacers made we could do it for FA - let me know !!What about the plate that bolts on the chassis ? can never quite follow what thats exact for ?
Would be interested in that, i was working on M10 sizes as thats is the bolt size used but they may not be strong enough in that sizing. The Lotus kit does use the conical spacer washers as well, so i guess they do use larger bearings.The bracket looks like it is there for support of the bolt head, doesn’t seem to add any strength to it, could double up as a heat shield ?Titanium mmmmm, needs welding with argon in vacuum chamber doesn’t it?For the rod length, couldn’t you measure whats on there now ?[This message has been edited by Phil Davies (edited 06 January 2003).]
Using a 1/2 inch joint is no problem - we have the lh and rh taps here and some old joints for checking. I think the threading must be real good quality as thats taking the load.Interested to know what size the rod is - Length and diameter - maybe someone can get under their car with a measuring stick for us - David ? - Yeah I used Ti for shock absorber spacers and such things as well as tie rods - just drilling, milling and turning operations, but if you try and take too much too quick you destroy the tool.Dont’know about welding it - I’ll ask Ian here he used to weld diving bells and stuff in STST and such - he’s certified [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image]
There is a sheild on the LH anyway isn’t there ? I’m sure its a heat sheild from the CAT for the joint - so it should be easy to make a copy up from that.
Andrew,280mm long, 19.15mm thick, the .15 maybe dirt as the other end was 19.17
PhilThe orders on to make a few rods from some good STST with 1/2 inch LH and RH threads and a flat milled for easy adjustment in the middle.Give me a couple or thre weeks and I’ll send them on so you see what you think - we can always make up again with 10mm thread, but I’m thinking I like the larger joint … Mini had 5/8 bottom arms but they were a little huge …I’ll also get some conical spacers made up although TAS can supply those I think - and I guess we need some shim stacks - will look into that as well.Hows the engine going ? -
Sounds good to me [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image] i think the larger rod ends would be better too, they are stronger and have a larger alpha angle (sounds good that, i pick it up from some spec sheets [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/wink.gif[/image] )Sounds like you have everything in hand there !!!Bottom end has been put together and its waiting for the return of the head, DVA has had it repaired and re-ported it to his standards, shouldn’t be long now - i hope !
Looked at the Lotus Toe link kit parts list and they use 1/2 inch rod ends with a sleeve for the 10mm bolt, they also give the bolt sizes which is nice …So its all set, I just need to know the thickness of the spacer they use at the hub end but thats in hand as well [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]
JFYITi does indeed need to be welded in a vacuum - the surface oxidisation generated is the problem if you attack it with a standard MIG or TIG. It can done but its not really gonna be good …
PhilWe got the steel in its 316 stainless, we did debate 2316 stainless but its a bit overkill we think. I’m making them a bit larger diameter than the std link - 22mm and maybe a bit longer to make sure there is plenty of thread in the bar. We have the taps so its just a matter of doing it - I’m out of the country all next week and relying on TV internet access - so I guess they will be ready when I come back - let me know where I should send 'em - by mail if you likeCheers
Just caught upwith this thread - turns out its quite topical for me as my toe links are “really in need of changing”.I have an Elise with the alloy uprights, will these toe links work for me? If so, can I place an order for a set? Its not so much the reduction in price that attracts me, but the increase in quality and durability!CheersChrisps. Please contact offline if this is possible and you’re willing![email protected]
Andrew, YHM…Yep dont want them too strong, rather have them bend than the hub carrier being ripped apart !!Chris,This is very much a “lets have a go at making them ourselves” project, no doubt if things work out and Andrew can get them made in quantity i’m sure they will be for sale !!However the uprights will need to be changed to steel if you replace yours with the rose jointed links.
ChrisI’ll mail you offline … Like Phil sayes we are just making use of some resources to make a bar with two threads in [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]The real important ( durability wise) parts are the ones you have to buy - like bolts and rod ends.I have no real intention of competing with anyone its just daft to spend money when you can make it yourself - I even found the rod ends I need in my loft [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image]
I am just traking down a good price on the rod end bearings, so far i have found ï¿½17.99 each + vat but just out of curiosity is anyone else slightly interested in the toe links, not that i expect Miniman to make the rods, i have a friendy company that could do that if he doesn’t want to !Cheers