Has anyone had problems starting their engine?
Mine is now taking up to a minute of cranking to fire up, then miss fires before catching on all 4 cylinders. It miss fires on occasion once its going and warmed up.
I have fitted new Champian spark plugs and Blue Magnecor leads, without helping. Thinking about changing the ignition pack (if I can find out which part number to order) but would appreciate any asisstance in diagnosing the problem .
Mine is now taking up to a minute of cranking to fire up
That’s some good battery you have there!
Yes it is, it’s one of those new gel batteries
The gel battery could be the issue. If it isn’t giving out the correct cranking amps there often isn’t enough power left over while the starter motor is running, to power the ECU sufficiently for it to get the correct signals from all of the sensors and start the car. To test my theroy, I would connect a battery jumper pack or another battery to your battery and try starting it then.
Think I have not explained the problem explicitly enough. The engine starts after considerable cranking time and effort from the battery. Alas the engine is not at it’s best once it’s started, and I am not used to waiting up to a minute for exhaust fumes to appear out or the exhaust pipe.
No, I understand exactly where you are coming from. Give what I suggest a whirl and see if it helps the problem.
Sean…
check distributor cap and brown sensor
Cheers Dom
check distributor cap…
Let us know “when” you find it
PS I note that you’re “on the case” via SELOC - hope you sort it soon.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
so far the list is of suspects are:
Suspect…Exige trouble code
- Gel battery…(P1420, P1421)
- Dodgy fuse…(?)
- Dodgy idle air control valve (IAC)…(?)
- Dodgy throttle position sensor…(P0122, P0123)
- Dodgy Engine coolant temperature
sensor (ETC) (brown)…(P0112, P0113)
The list will go to the garage Monday.
I will post the solution here and on SELOCs site once the problem is solved.
PS I have connected a OBD2 ISO diagnostic tool and no fault codes are indicated. The garage has used their rather more expensive tool and confirmed my findings. Therefore checking the fuses will be my first priority followed by the IAC.
Has anyony seen it? is the IAC inside the air manifold or below it?
The gel battery could be the issue. If it isn’t giving out the correct cranking amps there often isn’t enough power left over while the starter motor is running, to power the ECU sufficiently for it to get the correct signals from all of the sensors and start the car.
Sean, surely if there was not enough power to start the engine in the first few cranks then the engine would never start? The cranking power of the battery has to drop over time and after 1 minute of trying I would imagine it has dropped by quite alot, but it still starts the engine.
Dont forget the distributor cap on your list
Its a very common cause for misfiring
humidity inside or worn contacts with the rotor
Cheers Dom
Dom
Exige has coil packs, not a distributor
Dont forget the distributor cap on your list
Its a very common cause for misfiring
humidity inside or worn contacts with the rotor
Cheers Dom
think you had too many night-caps…
Logic
explain the theory in respect of this being a Fuse problem ?? I can’t figure that as an issue because your car starts but just has difficulty.
My bets are on th eGel cell
Logic
explain the theory in respect of this being a Fuse problem ?? I can’t figure that as an issue because your car starts but just has difficulty.
A poor connection with the fuse blades?
My bets are on th eGel cell
Why? How can a battery give out more power the longer you turn it over?
Logic
explain the theory in respect of this being a Fuse problem ?? I can’t figure that as an issue because your car starts but just has difficulty.
A poor connection with the fuse blades?
[color:“blue”] yeh but how would that result in the symptoms ? [/color]My bets are on th eGel cell
Why? How can a battery give out more power the longer you turn it over?
[color:“blue”] i didn’t think gelfilled had quite the same capacity or demand capability as a wet cell [/color]
A poor connection with the fuse blades?
[color:“blue”] yeh but how would that result in the symptoms ? [/color]
Car doesn’t start at 1st because the fuse is loose/not making a proper contact. Cranking over the engine will move the fuse enough to make a proper contact.
My bets are on th eGel cell
Why? How can a battery give out more power the longer you turn it over? [/quote] [color:“blue”] i didn’t think gelfilled had quite the same capacity or demand capability as a wet cell [/color] [/quote]
but its ability won’t INCREASE over time as you crank will it?
Ok,
Whose money was on a dodgy connection and a blown fuse?
That�s what the garage found.
The fuse is B3 (7.5amp), found on the bulkhead behind the driver seat, second from the left (looking at the fuses). According to my drawings this supplies the I.A.C.V, canister purge solenoid, NVH butterfly valve solenoids A & B and terminal 8 of the E.C.M.
Thanks again guys for the inspiration and advice.
Ok,
Whose money was on a dodgy connection and a blown fuse?That�s what the garage found.
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