Firstly Clive you’re doing all this work and we seeing no evidence of it and secondly oh bearded one you’re clearly thinking of doing all this work and will likely do a Keyser Soze… Get some build threads up fella’s 
Put Anglesey in the diary, can’t say for definite but will try and get along to say hello.
It’s pretty loose when cold and gets tighter when hot IMO. You’re right, solidified is a poor description.
System really should be fitted with springs though - with each cycle of expansion/contraction the pipes creep a little and then rattle.
Sounds like another upgrade for the list. It’s getting rather long.
[quote It’s pretty loose when cold and gets tighter when hot IMO. n.[/quote]
Whar exactly are you talking about??? 
I cant remember that far back!
Jonny…I’m the other side of the world at the moment. But you will get some " Mr Beans ramblings on refurb "
When I get back
Well ahead of you there - Duralac treatment was done after “only” 6 years - that’s nearly 10 years ago…so maybe time to take it off again and see what it looks like!
Photo buckets up and running so this is my set up.
Really practical JDS rear box that is re-packable and has a nice long pipe so the rear of the car doesn’t get licked with flames and heat.
The engine bay
With loads of room around the manifold for air flow.
You can see one of the springs here. On the first drive out when launching the exhaust fell out at the manifold slip joints. Luckily I managed to pop it back in and drive home but it wasn’t good enough without the springs. Since the springs have been fitted I’ve not had any issues. The hole in the tray could have been a little bit shorter at the rear but it all does what it should so its just cosmetic.
I dropped the tray to allow air to escape from the rear.
Using quality exact fit spacers that can be found on eBay.
I would defiantly recommend changing the plastic ducts after mine melted. The alloy ducts are standing up to the heat produced and I’m really happy with how everything is working and have no temperature related issues.
Nice photos - good to share 
We do need a link for your spacer/bobbins & alloy ducts - although oddly mine are doing OK (or might have been the whilst the exhaust wrapping was fully in place!).
It does look like the alternator is a little exposed to the manifold - the photos a little unclear of that detail but is the OEM shield in place?
I’ll have a look on eBay for the spacers and bobbins, I did buy them a few years ago but I’m sure they are available. I used the bobbins along the back, and some spacers for the larger bolts holding the tray up.
JC WeldFab fabricated the ducts and alloy welded them for me. They are based Wellingborough and also made the de-cat pipe and my oil cooler which they now have the design for. (I also changed the cooler set up and was then able to use an Elise front tray so the bottom of the car is completely flat. My cooler is mounted under the pro alloy radiator).
The alternator is cooled by the increased air flow and the heat from the exhaust manifold has been dramatically cut due to the Zircotec coating. The OEM shield went in the bin with the mounting brackets making easier access for other components when you need to get to them.
So far I’ve not had a problem with the alternator but I did replace it with a Bosch 4299 0 986 042 991 because I didn’t like the OEM alternator.
Excellent stuff thank you.
Blimey, I did not have to cut a hole that big when I used the EP manifold but I did use spacers. I made some trial spacers from a stack of penny washers joined into a stack with some tape (red I think). That let me play about until I got some that minimized the manifold touching the undertray. As is often the way, I forgot about the bodge and used them for several years. I only cut a hole that extended the existing hole by about 10cm and was also offset to one side.
ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT Spacers for the undertray side fasteners?
I’m lost, all after market exhausts need a cut out or spacers?
I only used spacers on the rear tray.
I can only comment on the Elise Parts manifold which requires tray evolution.
If you purchase Elise-Shop up-rated gear cables you may need to cut one one of those because it is too long and you can’t get any gears. As long as you have a Dremel and the correct size die everything will be ok.
I’ve just accepted that nothing will fit and I’ll most likely have to complete the products.
S1 Exige, EP Exhaust, no cutting at all with the standard manifold, it does not go near the under tray.
S1 Elise, EP Exhaust and full manifold, small bore, and cat. I used spacers under all four tray bolts of about 1.5cm. I also has to cut a small hole in the under tray. Tbh, I let it rub for a bit, looked at the witness marks and then cut a hole so it did not rub anymore.
Our cars are all a bit different so I may have been lucky not having to cut much away.
No spacers were used on the sides, back and front bolts. Just the 4 big bolts.
I think it just depends on how long they make the primaries, the OEM design had them relatively short and thus only take two pipes side by side across the narrow gap above the undertray:
Whilst others have longer primaries which mean they take four pipes double stacked across the narrow gap which means cutting into the undertray - this is from 2bular:
The reason for the longer primaries - quoted from 2bular:
“It has the correct bores and lengths in its primaries and matched secondary pipes to achieve maximum power and torque from the VHPD motor. If you see an aftermarket K-series manifold with the flexy section where the secondaries should be - you’re looking at a compromised design.”
Lets face it, all exhaust designs are a compromise!! Otherwise they would be sticking out of all sorts of strange places, really loud, no cats, no silencers, etc.
Pick the compromise that suits your use/requirements. Lotus went for pretty good on the performance side, no need to cut holes in things to make it fit. Others choose their priorities differently.
Sticking out of all sorts of strange places, really loud, no cats, no silencers… Now you’re talking.
I need to think about this…