Cleaning the tub...

Guys,
I’ve literally just jacked the car up and taken the wheels off to clean off all the crud from my rainy driving days (I’m getting a bit of an obsession about producing Rooster tails!), and notice that after I’ve cleaned the arches and inside of the wheels that the chassis tub could do with a clean. Now I don’t want to be as OCD as Esprit, but has anyone got any recommendations as to what I should clean it with?
The wheels will come up with my mitt and car shampoo, the same for the arches plus a nylon dish brush for the more stubborn bits, but what for the tub underside?

Many thanks,
Kurt

Try some brake cleaner… it’s like a quick-evaporating solvent, spray on, leave for a few seconds then wipe off… should dissolve most oils etc.

You can use a metal polish like autosol on it, so long as you just go gently and sparingly you won’t damage the anodising…there is a risk of polishing too hard though and going through the anodising and that’s not the best.

GT85 I’m told by a friendly detailer is the best stuff for cleaning alloy.

Haven’t used them myself yet, but were recommended by several people on seloc

magic sponges

I clean them all the time, definately the best is Autosmart G101

[quote=stevegreen]Haven’t used them myself yet, but were recommended by several people on seloc

magic sponges

[/quote]

Same stuff HERE , along with Ovenpride our very own Speedfreak bought these to market…

…a light wipe also removes rubber scuff marks after a track day.

Re anodisied parts - are all the under trays and chassis parts treated the same way. On my S2 the removable one under the engine is in a poor state and the fixed one is badly stained (not pitted) in from of the rear wheels.

Any particular dilution ratio for the chassis?

Clean with baby wipes and coat in ACF-50.

Shurely shum mishtake . .
Just looked at product description and saw the following:

*Not for use on metalwork or leather.

Maybe dilution is a factor?

Autosmart G101 is professional strength multi-purpose cleaner that is unbeatable for intensive cleaning of neglected wheel arches, engine bays and undercarriage areas.

However, the high strength of the solution must not be taken lightly, and care should always be taken to select the correct dilution strength for the task in hand, and to [color:#FF0000]avoid letting it dry out fully before it is rinsed off, otherwise permanent stains may appear on treated surfaces[/color].

In short, as long as it is used with a degree of care and at the recommended dilution ratios, Autosmart G101 is an excellent value for money intensive cleaning product, and one that we happily recommend to experienced enthusiasts and professionals alike.

For general cleaning duties it should be diluted 30:1 (water:product)

For more intensive degreasing duties it should be diluted 8:1 (water:product)

For wheel cleaning and synthetic sealant removal duties; in such cases it should be diluted 5:1 (water:product) and spot tested before use.

In all cases, an appropriately diluted solution should be sprayed directly onto the surface to be cleaned and then agitated thoroughly with suitable detailing brushes before being fully rinsed off.

Autosmart G101 contains, among other ingredients, sodium hydroxide (= caustic).

This reacts with the protective oxide layer to produce a water-soluble salt (ie. removing the oxide layer), allowing the water that is also present (eg. in the diluted product) to react with the underlying aluminium.

NB. this is the same reason caustic-based oven cleaners often state they should never be used on aluminium.

Ultimately it will give the same effect as the well-documented floor corrosion phenomenon, especially if it is not cleaned out of any corners and crevices.

Personally I wouldn’t let it near my chassis.

[quote=tlracer]Autosmart G101 contains, among other ingredients, sodium hydroxide (= caustic).

This reacts with the protective oxide layer to produce a water-soluble salt (ie. removing the oxide layer), allowing the water that is also present (eg. in the diluted product) to react with the underlying aluminium.

NB. this is the same reason caustic-based oven cleaners often state they should never be used on aluminium.

Ultimately it will give the same effect as the well-documented floor corrosion phenomenon, especially if it is not cleaned out of any corners and crevices.

Personally I wouldn’t let it near my chassis. [/quote]

Nor me, and not on any wheels either. I also know that any wheels cleaned with any caustic cleaner , in what ever solution,will invalidate any warranty. This would apply with any ’ powder coated’ item.

Bloody Hell, I’m just gonna leave mine dirty I reckon. Much safer!!!

Looking for some underbody protection for my RRS and came upon a site that appears to offer a common sense approach:

"Maintenance

The best way to keep aluminium looking pristine is regular cleaning to remove any build up of dirt. If left for an extended period of time, grime can cause staining and depending on the extent of staining will require a harsher cleaning system to remove the stain. In cleaning aluminium one should always start with the mildest method possible and only move to successively harsher treatments if absolutely necessary.

Cleaning Methods

The cleaning methods in ascending order of harshness are:

� Plain water
� Mild soap / detergent
� Solvents such as kerosene, turpentine or white spirit
� Non-etching chemical cleaner
� Wax-based polish
� Abrasive wax
� Abrasive cleaner

After cleaning the aluminium should be washed thoroughly and dried to prevent streaking. Special care should be taken to remove any traces of cleaner from edges and joins. Always follow manufacturers recommendations when using proprietary cleaning products.

Abrasive cleaners can alter the appearance of polished aluminium or aluminium with a �grain� finish. If the aluminium has a grain, always clean with the grain."

from HERE

[quote=stevegreen]Looking for some underbody protection for my RRS and came upon a site that appears to offer a common sense approach:

"Maintenance

The best way to keep aluminium looking pristine is regular cleaning to remove any build up of dirt. If left for an extended period of time, grime can cause staining and depending on the extent of staining will require a harsher cleaning system to remove the stain. In cleaning aluminium one should always start with the mildest method possible and only move to successively harsher treatments if absolutely necessary.

Cleaning Methods

The cleaning methods in ascending order of harshness are:

� Plain water
� Mild soap / detergent
� Solvents such as kerosene, turpentine or white spirit
� Non-etching chemical cleaner
� Wax-based polish
� Abrasive wax
� Abrasive cleaner

After cleaning the aluminium should be washed thoroughly and dried to prevent streaking. Special care should be taken to remove any traces of cleaner from edges and joins. Always follow manufacturers recommendations when using proprietary cleaning products.
:astonished: :astonished:
Abrasive cleaners can alter the appearance of polished aluminium or aluminium with a �grain� finish. If the aluminium has a grain, always clean with the grain."

from HERE
[/quote]

I owned a DeLorean DMC 12 years ago , and all the above was a prerequisite :slight_smile:

Were any of them any good at removing those white, powdery deposits that caused John DeLorean’s downfall? :astonished:

Were any of them any good at removing those white, powdery deposits that caused John DeLorean’s downfall? :astonished: [/quote]

Not a problem I got the FBI to remove them , as they supplied the powder in the first place( owners keepers!) :wink: :wink:

Hot water and sponge, followed by Baby Wipes followed by ACF-50.

Just a bump on this, but this time on the interior.

Any solution to getting rid of water marks and a few fine scratches on the interior tub below the sill pads?