After a few months gathering dust I tried to get the car going this morning but it refuses to fire.
First I tried charging the battery, then tried a new battery, also changed the spark plugs, but other than turning over fast it doesn’t fire up.
I’ve given the inertia switch a press, pulled the fuses behind the drivers seat + bonnet and re-seated them.
It’s not empty, the car has 25 litres of fuel in, and I’ve used the immobiliser fob to turn off the flashing red led.
Any ideas ?
Do you have spark at the plugs? Try the old srewdiver trick…
Immobiliser?
Can you hear the fuel pump priming ?
Is this your Audi Motorsport car ?
The fuel pump primes, I wait for the pump to stop whirring before turning the engine over.
No, this is my standard Exige.
Is there a way of temporarily bypassing the immobiliser to discount that ?
OK, I’ve just tried out some Ignition Spark Testers from Halfords ( THESE ) and looks like there’s no spark getting to them…
Hmm… any ideas?
I’ve done that
PM sent Mr Admin 
Could be a Dicky Crank Angle Sensor - if its a K - if no spark, no fuel is apparent?
Thanks for the tip Simon, I’ve heard others with similar symptoms reporting the CAS problems. How do I know if it’s that, is it just a case of changing it ? Simple to do ?
Have you checked the ignition relay on the bulkhead? This relay powers fuses 3 and 4 where you can check for 12v.
Also check for 12v at the green wire (pin 2) on the coil pack, this is the main feed from the imobiliser.
Also agree it could be a crank sensor. If there is 12v at the coil this would be my next thought.
I am guessing Pesky has PM’d you on how to bypass the imobilisor? Try that.
CAS failure symptoms are no spark, no fuel delivery
I’ve had 2 to date 
I got RAC to sort the last one out - Homestart 
Very easy to access once airbox off and vertical ali luggage shelf removed
In the recent past when I was having an identical problem I would attempt to start it in the garage, then roll it out backwards and try to jump start in reverse. This always seemed to shock the car into action as it would always then start on the ignition key. Maybe that disturbs the CAS?
Hope that helps.
More recently, after a similar period of inactivity to yours,albeit connected to a battery conditioner,it would not start. My son eventually started it by repeatedly trying it on the starter, switching off, removing ignition key and going through the whole process again and again. The car was coughing but not firing. Eventually when it coughed, he gave it full throttle and it started and settled into a steady idle(!)It has been running perfectly ever since.
I’ve now tried the immobiliser bypass but still no joy.
I’ll try the starting in reverse trick.
A tow start also works wonders (or did) on some of my stubborn cars…
Once couldn’t get a Lotus Sumbeam started for a week …
Turned out nothing more sinister than plugs fouling and becoming wet and oily with repeated attempts to start …
Plugs have been replaced :-/
With a tow start as speed builds up the alternator kicks in then system voltage goes up giving better spark etc etc…
Compression builds up…
Fuel burns better with higher piston speed…
Well worth a try
Looking at the WSM the crank sensor uses a twisted pair of wires. I would check that these are still twisted, they can relax over time and pick up interferance, although this is more usual on CAN wiring.
From memory the K series has a 5v square wave on the Crank Sensor, if you have a Multi Meter with a graph facility you could crank and check across pins A & B for the signal.
My fist call would be to check for 12v at the coil first, if you have 12v there then it must be an ECU/CAS issue.
Well, I had a look for the crank sensor and near it there was what looked like an earth strap connected to the block which was loose.
I tightened it up and the car started fine. Phew !
Got to love easy fixes