Burnt tailpipe surrounding

My rear clam turned yellow… has anyone experienced this?

[image]http://img500.imageshack.us/img500/6303/imgp2982s7pz.jpg[/image]

Could this be caused by overheating (tips too close to the clam) or flame throwing?

Yes & yes, a bit.

If you’ve got the Lotus 190 ECU, it will be overfueling, hence your brown stain Should easily be removed with a bit of polish.

I’m running M3DK, and I guess it might be the acceleration fueling causing the problem. I’ll give it a polish and see how it goes. Thanks!

Mines a lot worse than that - I have a provisional date with Mr Adrews to ‘fix’ it

Hey Hubert,
Could you post a pic showing the way you have vented your number plate panel. I would like to do this to mine since it is a track only car and I want to get as much info as possible before taking the dremel to it .

Cheers,
Mike

Hi Mike,

I simply cut out the entire section. You can take a good look at how the mid-engined race cars did it here:

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/Exiges/-PGpesky2317017640.jpg[/image]

Thank’s that is a cool photo link!

Re: Burnt tailpipe surrounding … has anyone experienced this?

Yes, Avoid spicy food.

Mike

Should have mentioned that I use “velcro” to fit/remove the number plate.

Also, if you look into the smaller grills at the rear (which house the reversing/fog lights), you will see that you can cut holes in the plastic. This will assist to escape from the area around the silencer.

Hope you’ve got a steady “Dremel Hand”

[image]> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/Exiges/-PGpesky2317017640.jpg> [/image]

Rob - have you got a photo taken from the reverse side - to show how the grills are fixed?

Steve

No photo - but they’re fixed with sikoflex (well Partco equivalent, anyway!). It’s bloody awful stuff to handle, so I’d recommend you borrow the wife’s “Marigolds”

Maybe this gallery would be of help?

Uldis good set with excellent words…but no reverse pics

Did you use anything to seal the edges of the raw fibreglass - I’m just thinking about water getting in?

Yes, didn’t take any pics from the inside.
I just used some same-colour silver paint on the edges (Halfords, the paint touch up stick) so it’s sealed.

And on the inside, I would say the most difficult part is to cut the aluminum grille to shape. It has to be done is two separate sides unless you remove the middle bracket, which is a mess, and needs to stay there for strength.
So two sides it was.

And then bend the edges to shape te conturs, so it’s basically like “cupping” the fibreglass. Then the final step would use the sikaflex. You could also use some black epoxy (found in Halfords or B&Q again) used for general strong repairs. As strong as aluminum and not brittle.

Hey Hubert,
Could you post a pic showing the way you have vented your number plate panel. I would like to do this to mine since it is a track only car and I want to get as much info as possible before taking the dremel to it .

Cheers,
Mike

there is a good selection here Clicky

I’m running M3DK, and I guess it might be the acceleration fueling causing the problem. I’ll give it a polish and see how it goes. Thanks!

Hubert

I think the M3DK has an option to switch fueling OFF on over-run… Uldis/SeanB help here ?? … If i’m right, can you check because my guess is that you haven’t selected it. Those burns are almost certainly the result of afterburner flames

Thx Roxx

I do have that function on, cutting fuel above 2300rpm or something. I’ve never looked into this function though.

My old tailpipes weren’t sticking out enough before (only parellel to the clam), so I extended them by 70mm. Hope this can keep the flames away from the clam

Thx Roxx

I do have that function on, cutting fuel above 2300rpm or something. I’ve never looked into this function though.

My old tailpipes weren’t sticking out enough before (only parellel to the clam), so I extended them by 70mm. Hope this can keep the flames away from the clam

You don’t want to CUT fuel above 2300 rpm… not really eh…