Brake Pedal Travel

Being a bit disappointed with the standard brakes I had Comp Pads (EBC Green�s) and Goodrich Braided Hoses fitted at the first service. But I still feel there is too much pedal travel. It is much better than the standard brakes but I think only because the brakes grip in harder with less actual effort and there are more linear �more pressure more brakes�; but I still find with braking from high speed (longer on the brakes) that the middle pedal goes past the throttle making it quite difficult to trail brake into corners and get back cleanly on the loud pedal. I would even consider a mod to the pedal box to bring the middle pedal up an inch or so but I have read through the rest of the forums and have not seen anything but praise for the brakes, so perhaps it�s just me and my size 10�s� does anyone else have any trouble with pedal travel?

More of a thought than any real help but…I find heel’n’toe (with my size 9.5s) difficult unless the brake pedal is lower than the throttle. Especially if you’re trying to match very high revs.The desired pedal settings you describe sounds a little like the Noble M12, a set-up I hated (a shame when the car’s so good). Horses for courses I guess.

quote:Being a bit disappointed with the standard brakes I had Comp Pads (EBC Green�s) and Goodrich Braided Hoses fitted at the first service. But I still feel there is too much pedal travel.Roy, I can’t guarantee it, but I think you will find that adding SRF to the equation will fix your problem. IMHO, there’s not too much point in doing the hoses and the pads without doing the fluid too. If you haven’t read it already, have a read of the following thread for some chat about SRF: http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/Forum4/HTML/000039.html My car heel-n-toes beautifully with the current set-up, even under very hard use.

IDG,Yes my size 10 Doc Martins do make things a little more tricky, but I feel a right nerd prancing around in my bright red nomex boots at work.Tony,I did not give Kings enough notice to get the SRF when they did the 190 conversion doh� I will get it done at the next earliest opportunity. I am 90% certain of going to Donnigton 5pm- 8pm next Thursday evening 16th Aug, I doubt I will get it done by then, but it will be interesting to see how the brakes stand up to really hard use (If I can remember how to drive properly, I�m a bit rusty so will probably start off really sloooow).The other funny I have is still variable performance with Throtlle pick-up anywhere below 3,000 RPM, sometime it is crisp as anything and then at others it�s a sluggish as hell, it does not really affect the cars speed but just doesn�t feel right.Thanks for the adviceRoyPS Can�t wait until your empire stretches down South you seem know more than any Lotus expert I have ever known.

quote:PS Can�t wait until your empire stretches down South you seem know more than any Lotus expert I have ever known.Thanks, although I should point out that I’m not trying to be an expert, I’m just trying to help out where I can. [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]

Roy,Okay that’s spooky! How did you know about my ‘bright red Nomex boots’! There I was in the office about to head off to karting with my wanabee racer colleagues having the urine extracted big time due to my ‘bright red Nomex boots’. I seek solace at www.exiges.com only to find you too are invovled in the conspiracy!What can I say they were half price in a Grand Prix Racewear sale and I had thought that seeing as they’d spend most of their time in a pedal box it wouldn’t matter!The main problem is it means there is added pressure to beat them all. Which would be a bit easier in a kart if I lost some more weight.When my Exige arrives and you see a guy at a future track day pacing up and down a pitlane in ‘bright red Nomex boots’ say hi.Stop spying on me, Ian :slight_smile:

Ian, your colleagues are right to take the ****… Red boots ! hahaha hahaha(PS. hahaha hahaha)

I found heel ‘n’ toeing a bit tricky for the first couple of months, and then I found a simple fix. You can adjust the position of throttle pedal. Take a look a the linkage connecting the pedal to the cable (it helps if you’re a bit skinny when you’re working under there. I also recommend having a friend around to pull you out [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/wink.gif[/image] ) You should find a rod attached directly to the pedal. This has adjustable ball joints at each end. Undo one end of this rod, and loosen the lock nuts on both ball joints. You should now be able to lengthen the rod by twisting the ball joints. Make sure you leave at least 3 turns of the rod inside the rod ends so it doesn’t all fall apart. Tighten the lock nuts up again for the same reason, and re-attach the end of the rod. When you have found the ideal position for the pedal, you will find that pushing the pedal down doesn’t fully open the throttle. So finally you will need to adjust the pedal stop, which is a bolt behind the pedal, which obviously prevents you from overstretching the cable. You will need to loosen the lock nut, and screw the bolt further in, you need to find the point where pushing the pedal right down to the stop opens the throttle fully, but without stretching the cable. Then wind the bolt back slightly, so there’s no chance of it stretching the cable at all.Sorry for the long winded instructions, feel free to ask for further advice if you’re interested, but bear in mind I only look on here a couple of times a week.

Damn,I was going to buy red boots as well! [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/blush.gif[/image]