Brake cooling

The Oily Bits S2 Specific Topics
1

Does anybody have any pics on how they solved the brake cooling on an S2?

I seem to remember seeing hoses tie wraped to suspension arms and half of the tube protruding below the floor…but i cannot remember where.

2

There are some s1 piccys about with tubes from the spare ducts at the front but also on the piccys of last years gt3, taken from the front grill where the spots normally are and attched to the suspension as you said. I will have a quick gander.

Gav

3

Well i sort of found them but it looks like they are brandons photos which are no longer available!

http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=70455&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=2&vc=1

4

no heat problems on the forged wheels,

Only seems a problem with the spider standard exige wheels.

5

Are these the ones?

[image]http://farm1.static.flickr.com/223/473589780_5fa2c18ee1.jpg[/image]

[image]http://farm1.static.flickr.com/180/473590686_1b0cc52b6b.jpg[/image]

6

There the ones!

7

i have the forged wheels…

Try driving at a track like Hockenheim and you will find that the brakes cannot take ONE stop from the 140mph down to the first gear hairpin after Parabolica!

Or save yourself the trip, find a suitable location in England and do an emergency stop from flat out down to 20mph…IF your brakes can take that, try it again three times (thats a lap of Hockenheim) if they are still ok i would really like to know what brakes you have on your car.

8

Pictures from this years gt3 cars which has cooling ducts.

When i was there they were making a new bracket as the pipes were coming off as the angle was wrong. The first picture you can see the pipe coming off.

On the second picture the pipe is tie wrapped back

[image]http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j149/chaseldine/cooling-ducts-1.jpg[/image]

[image]http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j149/chaseldine/cooling-ducts-2.jpg[/image]

[image]http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j149/chaseldine/GT3.jpg[/image]

9

they copied what I did a few years ago!

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v629/Uldis/Brake%20cooling/100-0305_IMG.jpg[/image]

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v629/Uldis/Brake%20cooling/100-0313_IMG.jpg[/image]

10

Thanks for all the replies, i am gonna whip the wheels off today with mitch and see what we can come up with. Where to get the air from seems to be a bit of a problem on the S2 due to the oil coolers. I will post pics if we come up with anything resembling a professional solution…

11

they copied what I did a few years ago!

[image]> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v629/Uldis/Brake%20cooling/100-0305_IMG.jpg> [/image]

[image]> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v629/Uldis/Brake%20cooling/100-0313_IMG.jpg> [/image]

hi uldis, nice job there. i am looking to clone that pretty shortly. i see to avoid the wheel at full turn in the ducting has to be fitted very tightly into the corner when choosing where to go through the wheel arch liner? what diameter ducting have you used? me and bruhla have aquired some 65mm stuff. it will be very tight getting it in there. i have a washer bottle on the left side behind the wheelarch liner. this might have to move a bit…
i imagine you have joined the ducting into the dummy inlets either side on the rad inlet? and the aluminium collector on the back of the hub looks great. good job. you didn’t make a spare set and now want to flog it off cheap did you by any chance?

are you are using muts nuts brakes? who makes and supplies these? I have had a trawl and i am getting no luck finding out more.

thanks for the pictures btw.

12

I got bigger Tarox discs and wider pads (in the stock callipers) plus a simple cooling duct setup up taking air from under the car as the OP described:

Tarox discs:
[image]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p8aff909ddfa645910d28b54e15626deb/e9da90ea.jpg[/image]

Duct intake:
[image]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p58aa3e27a7758ac7872e50dc5fc917e5/e9b74fd0.jpg[/image]

Duct outlet:
[image]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p1fefcdd3af146258958d16c5a81fa746/e9b748f0.jpg[/image]

I have absolutely no problems with this setup. Worked fine at Dijon, even two up.

Will be trying them out at Hockenheim at Whit, but I doubt that they will be an issue.

13

speedy, which specs of taorox have you fitted? and where did you get the bells from?

14

hi uldis, nice job there. i am looking to clone that pretty shortly. i see to avoid the wheel at full turn in the ducting has to be fitted very tightly into the corner when choosing where to go through the wheel arch liner? what diameter ducting have you used? me and bruhla have aquired some 65mm stuff. it will be very tight getting it in there. i have a washer bottle on the left side behind the wheelarch liner. this might have to move a bit…
i imagine you have joined the ducting into the dummy inlets either side on the rad inlet? and the aluminium collector on the back of the hub looks great. good job. you didn’t make a spare set and now want to flog it off cheap did you by any chance?

are you are using muts nuts brakes? who makes and supplies these? I have had a trawl and i am getting no luck finding out more.


Hi Mitch.
Unfortunately I haven’t been able to continue fabricating these kind of things, fully intend to play with stuff like this starting this winter, and will make some bits (more than one) as I go along.
Now after the house move, I still have to finish my garage/workshop

Hmmm, tried to find my initial post but it seems to be missing…

Anyway, I used the same, 65mm duct. Beware when choosing ducting, use one that doesn’t have exposed wire inside, as it will rust in no time making it collapse. I now use one that is shielded inside from the elements as well as on the outside.

My car is the non-AC one, so there is no washer bottle down there, the ducts just go straight from the scoops to the opening I did on the arches, as you see.
And yes the shape of the plenum is such that it doesn’t touch anything at any point.

This brake modification was done for a purpose, I kept on ruining disks and pads and as such wanted to see if anything could be done other than changing to a 4 pot setup.
It can, and it works perfectly. But the following has to be taken into consideration:

  • in order for air forced cooling to work, it has to be vented though the inside of the vanes, and not lose any air in the process
  • just dumping air in the area was tried too, with the result of filling the whole area with shite and grime from the road. The calipers were so full of much that they were barely working.
  • This setup cools very well… too well in some cases, which is why the opened scoops need to be closed by default and only opened at a dry track session. On a wet trackday they better stay closed.

The scoops I made (which eventually I’ll make some more of) are down here:

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v629/Uldis/Brake%20cooling/100-0059_IMG.jpg[/image]

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v629/Uldis/Brake%20cooling/100-0211_IMG-1.jpg[/image]


Mutts Nuts disks sadly are no longer being made so when mine wear out I’ll have to go like all of you guys with AP, Alcon or the likes, and just because the ID of the disk might be different than the MuttsNuts I may need to make some more plenums

15

top info uldis! thank you.

interesting to hear about the calipers getting filled with debris and getting even less efficient, but chucking all the bits through the disc cooling vanes could also hot things up a bit if unchecked. I am very much of the opinion supporting brake cooling. There are very few race cars without specific brake cooling.

years ago when i worked on group c cars we even made carbon caliper cooling shrouds as well as the disc cooling. if it is all getting too hot, either bigger brakes or get rid of the heat. simple… ish.

muts nuts have been chopped eh? shame to hear. but once armed with a set of bells the alcon/ap discs are at least standard sizes.

i have got some high temp tale tale paint and some heat sticker thingys, I am gonna conduct a with ducting and without test to see the difference a simple installation makes to disc and caliper temps. ( i.e. without the nice collector which you fabricated)

16

speedy, which specs of taorox have you fitted? and where did you get the bells from?

My Lotus dealer, Lotus West in Switzerland, designed them, did all the tech. drawings and gave them to Tarox with the agreement that he merely wanted the Swiss exclusive sales rights and what they did in other countries didn’t concern him. Both parties were happy with that. I don’t have a code number or anything like that � they are simply the bigger, grooved and crossdrilled ones.

At first I ran them on stock sized Ferodo 2500 pads, but now he’s been able to get larger ones that sweep an extra centimeter or so of the inner area.

AFAIK, the bells are stock on my Exige Cup… at any rate I didn’t get a bill itemising new ones. If they are new, then they were done with the Tarox discs as a package.

Cool dealer or what? And they do a free airfield day for customers each year.


To say I am pleased with my Lotus dealer is an understatement. (And in comparison to what I had to put up with from GM dealers with my Opel Speedster (VX220)… well, night and day does not begin to describe it!).