Brake bleeding using a compressor vacuum bleeder.

The Oily Bits S1 Specific Topics
1

Well after attending my first track day at Brands on Monday and experiencing total brake loss due to me boiling the brake fluid, I have decided that a drop of the old Castrol SRF should now be used to replace the knackered fluid.

Now, as I want to bleed / flush out The whole system I was thinking of investing in one of those compressor vacuum bleeders to ensure the changing process is as quick and painless as possible.

So my brake bleeding Gurus, my questions are:

  1. Should I bleed the whole system dry and then replace with the SRF or should I flush through the old stuff with a cheap fluid first before then completely adding the SRF.
  2. Do I still have to take off the calipers and rotate them so to help expel any air?
  3. Even when using a compressor vacuum bleeder do I still bleed in the following order; OSR, NSR, OSF, NSF (as per the SELOC wiki)
  4. At what point within the process should I bleed the clutch.

This if the bleeder I’m thinking of investing in: Linky

MTIA

Gus

2
  1. Flush through! I did it the other way because I also had a high water content but it took me a lot of time to get all the air out. Definitely flush through next time.
  2. It can help as they are stupidly connected on the bottom side. So air bubbles from one caliper can not transfer to the caliper with the bleeding nut. Using a big wrench and rapidly forcing the pistons back is also a trick to get air out.
  3. Yes!
  4. Flush brakes and than clutch with cheap stuff than same with SRF.
3

Heard stories that SRF is not very friendly to rubber seals and hoses and once you switch you should not then mix with other brake fluids?