Reckon after 46k miles clutch is on the way out - any recommendations on best replacement would be appreciated
Cheers
Reckon after 46k miles clutch is on the way out - any recommendations on best replacement would be appreciated
Cheers
most people replace it with an APRacing Clutch, however on the modified cars they have been known to tear themselves apart, if you’ve got a standard car you should be ok with the AP Clutch
Make sure you change absolutely everything, including the release bearing.
At 40kish miles my release bearing disintegrated while in France damaging the gearbox casing, and destroying the clutch (which looked in good condition otherwise).
So if you wanted a stronger clutch than the AP what would you use?
The twin plate http://www.superclutch.co.uk/
Cheers Uldis, I take it you have one and it allows fast starts with out slipping???
No, but I have the crappy AP MotorSpurts version and am not happy with it, one good start is all it takes to start slipping until it cools down (lots of smoke too )
The superclutches are kown in other circles, the 1/4 mile types, but a friend of mine saw them at Autosports and they were willing to make it for the early Exiges, and so far they’ve only made a few but it seems to work pretty well.
About the only one I know of (Helix promised one but didn’t deliver, hence I went for the AP).
They’re more expensive though, >400 quid.
�400, OMG. Do you think it would last long???
Don’t know, Giles (who frequents here at times) would have to tell us.
DOn’t see why not.
Thanks all
Don’t go mental and get a clutch that is too much for the cars power/weight. I had a bit of a monster clutch in a Caterham I used for sprinting, and the clutch didn’t provide any slip at all. You need some slip to avoid shocking the drive shafts and mounts. I split 3 diff casings (front to back) in 18 months. The clutch looked perfect though
I would not reccomend a twin plate for road use, they make a noise and are almost always grabby and juddery, yes those are real words. The AP does what it says on the tin, it is an upgrade of the std clutch for std cars, and offers an improvement with the same level of driveability. The price is also very attractive.
It is possible to mix and match a little in the AP range with a different clutch plate, however the size of the clutch at 215mm does not give many pressure plate options, also you start getting into the motorsport price ranges and it gets silly expensive. Best bet would be to have a different flywheel which takes a 184mm clutch, that will give you alot more std options. But again the smaller clutch does not lend itself to great driving around town. Ive stalled my car bout 200 million times already, a pleasure with the little race battery and it’s ample cranking current, not
If your clutch has lasted 40k miles, just get the AP with a new release bearing, available from land rover or Geary’s kit includes one.
The Sperclutch is a 184mm (I think) and according to Giles is not grabby at all, because he didn’t go for the sintered ones, but the organic ones, which have some give in.
According to him it feels great!
Hi there,
I had the problems with the dreaded chocolate AP racing clutch. A couple of fast starts and it was slipping big time. I now have the cheapest solution possible, I Fitted a genuine unipart maestro/montego turbo complete clutch kit �60. It now withstands 1/4 mile drag events 0-60 challenges and ultra agressive road starts. I believe that this is the item sold through a few outlets as a genuine uprated clutch; they probably won’t tell you though that it’s a montego clutch or they couldn’t charge you a few hundread quid for it…
My car has high torque (211 ft/lbs) which is normally a clutch killer but the Old TURBO BL cars had more torque and this clutch was designed for that purpose…
That sounds like a very good solution!
Tell me, does it look similar to the AP one? (which looks externally identical to the standard one BTW).
Or is it beefier and consequently heavier? (a problem as I have machined even my flywheel to lose some weight )
the standard Rover TD engine which is mated to the PG1 has more torque than any stage of tuning K series could ever reach. If the clutch is compatible, it should be a solid solution.
Hi there,
I had the problems with the dreaded chocolate AP racing clutch. A couple of fast starts and it was slipping big time. I now have the cheapest solution possible, I Fitted a genuine unipart maestro/montego turbo complete clutch kit �60. It now withstands 1/4 mile drag events 0-60 challenges and ultra agressive road starts. I believe that this is the item sold through a few outlets as a genuine uprated clutch; they probably won’t tell you though that it’s a montego clutch or they couldn’t charge you a few hundread quid for it…My car has high torque (211 ft/lbs) which is normally a clutch killer but the Old TURBO BL cars had more torque and this clutch was designed for that purpose…
Cool man, do you have any part numbers??
Sorry guys I have been away on hols. Just got back and am catching up with the threads. It looked very similar to the AP one but i believe it is a different compound material. i will fish out some numbers for you and post them up here…