So I’m about to install a battery isolator.
I have a Tyco EV200H isolator with built in economiser. (same as Brise)
Has anyone of you installed one of these ?
Additional parts needed are as I understand:
Are OEM positioning of the switches approved? Should not the external switches be around the A-pillar?
Thanks
Michael
A couple, seem pretty robust. Have a look here, for any bits and pieces that you are missing, and they also have a wiring diagram. They’re really helpful if you get stuck, but like everyone else, prefer it if you have actually bought something from them. http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/easy_install_raid_spec_battery_master_kit/?k=:::840926
Check the local approved mounting points for your area - no idea what Sweden requires - in the UK, within reason its acceptable to put them almost anywhere that is easy for a marshal to get to. FIA may be different, as they tend to be at the base of the windscreen.
simtek are good and will supply all of that, and they have a wiring diagram you can download too
I think you also need a relay to kill the engine too, as otherwise it can stutter on with the power from the alt. So Ideally you want to kill the coils.
I have spoken with Simtek. Thay can certainly supply any parts I need and they can supply a generic wiring diagram.
What thay cannot help me with is what parts are needed and how it is to be installed in a Lotus.
Basically I need one of Simtek’s BAT-100 kits without the actual isolator. Trouble is I don’t know how much of “Necessary cable and connectors” i need, and that I do not have Lotus specific instructions
BAT-100
1 x Ev200 with economiser
1 x Spike suppressor
1 x Engine kill relay
1 x Relay holder
1 x Green reflex switch (on – in cab)
1 x Red reflex switch (off – in cab)
2 x Yellow reflex switch (off – external)
Necessary cable and connectors
Set instructions
See above for what you need. The easiest way is to run the 2 green switches in series to earth, which will make whichever one you turn off, cut the battery positive off.
As Muu says, you will also need to cut out the either the coils or ECU to actually stop the engine. This is a little issue, as if you cut the coils, its a bit of pain to do and probably above the current usage of the low power cut out circuit, you can cut the ECU but they really don’t like that and can get a little confused, or cut an external relay to cut the coils, but this is even more complicated that the first option and adds extra connections/terminals, wires/etc for issues to arise.
The wire is pretty much low current, so can be any decent quality automotive cable, it only needs to be able to survive the vibrations, more than the capacity. Have used 20swg in the past with no problems.
Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t the secondary circuit on the brise used to hold the primary open?
So yeah quick scan of this:
Also you’ll need to deal with the voltage spike, otherwise you’ll toast the diode in the alternator. Simteks surge protector is essentially a bidirectional transil diode inline with a high current resistor, once the voltage passes a point it breaks down and bridges +ve to ground dumping the current via the resistor.
I looked at the brise but it looked a faf and it still consumes power when left on with the ignition off. Put an e-t-a 911 in instead, much simpler and can also do the coil cut on its secondary circuit. No remote ‘on’ though, just ‘off’.
Have now got the Cup car wiring diagram and it seems surprisingly straight forward.
From what I can tell just by looking at pictures Lotus uses 2x Green latching ITW 76-97 switches (Farnell carries those).
In the Cup car diagram there is basically just a 10A fuse placed in its own holder in the boot, an isolator (is is a Tyco EV200HAANA), a few wires, and a surge protector.
Do you know what values the surge protector diode and resistor should have ?
/Michael
