AP Front setup

Guys, having an A.P. set up put on my s1 exige k20a after serious fade at rockingham after 3 laps. In short the setup will be as follows…

Front A.P.brake bells - disc’s
Front A.P. brake calipers(4 pot)
Front 4 pot pagid pads
Braided line kit
Castrol S.R.F Racing brake fluid

Question is… Do i really need to upgrade the break cylinder or can i leave as is?

Pros and cons?

Many thanks in advance

Are you going to leave the rear set up standard?


When did you last change the fluid and what disc’s and pads are you using at the moment?

While the discs would be a good upgrade on a honda’d car, there are quite a few people who believe the standard front calipers are plenty good enough to get the job done - Chris Randall who won the last two LoTRDC scratch races in a SC honda exige uses std calipers.

The fade you are experiencing is most likely a combination of factors - as mentioned above, when was the fluid changed / bled properly? This has a dramatic effect on fade resistance. Also, what discs and pads currently?

The setup you have outlines will give you a major front braking bias BTW.

are you sure about it giving a front balance?..i would have thought it would have done the opposite.

The volume of fluid required for a given movement of the pad at the front will need to be increased. This increased amount of fluid will result in more pressure at the un-modified rear.

When the old front caliper is used at the rear this brings everything back in balance coz it also needs a greater fluid volume (for a given amount of pad movement) than the original rear.

I would have thought it totally depends on the piston size of the “4 pot caliper” used as to how the balance is changed …

WHat you are saying about the standard master cylinder is not correct in my opinion.

Lotus sell a modified motorsport master cylinder for the 4 pot front 2 pot rear setup. I use it and it is great, although I do use a brake bias on the rear line for fine tuning.

Walshy used a 4 pot front and 2 pot rear setup at Oulton and had problems and I believe he was on the standard size master cylinder.

ecb turbo groove disks + pagids on the front. standard rear.

warped the disks anyway so they need to go… don�t know if it has to do with the fact that i�m 13 stone or using a k20a but the breaks really don�t seem up to the job! ( rockingham destroyed them (I was 2�s up with another fatboy tho) after lap 3. and they weren�t that great at Bedford either!

just curious as to whether the cylinder change is absolutely necessary> considering iam leaving the rear setup as standard?


There’s your problem - shite rotors. You didn’t tell me that. Get some AP rotors (296mm) and std callipers are fine.

I wouldn’t mind some of these, where can I get them with the bells?

Can the same AP rotors and bells be fitted to the rear?

EliseParts sell them.


Yeah as Dave says, you gotta have decent rotors

I’m not a fan of APs, they warp too easily

I’m not a fan of APs, they warp too easily

but there are several different versions (well at least two!) so it should depend on whether you go for the thick or thin walled versions.

I believe the guys at ScaredStiff have tried them all and now use Brembos