I have been asked to share a few shots of my Audi install which is slightly different again to the others on here and in particular shauns. Mine differs in a couple of ways 1. I have my engine mounted lower in order to keep the driveshaft angels as flat as possible. (infact its so low that i have intergrated a sump cooling vent into the rear floor section) 2.I am using original audi engine mounts to combat vibration. 3. I am using bastardised audi/lotus drive shafts.
It’s another self sourced install, all parts including the very efficient charge cooling system are sourced from manufactured vehicles.
Please ignore the airfilter arrangement in the roof it’s total pants. It was a case of a beautiful conceptual design given to a panel beater and when i came to pick it up it was like something out of Blue Peter. Currently it was more important to get everything functional and ready for some serious testing, then at a later date some time could be put aside to make things look pretty !!!
I have one of the new emerald ECU’s running everything this gives me two james bond styled dash switches. Switch no.1 has 3 positions and can swap between 3 maps on the fly. A wet weather map, a dry map and a WARP SPEED one…The second switch is a multi positioned dial which gives me full contol of boost levels in each map allowing each of the three maps to be infinitely adjustable to drivers taste or weather conditions.
I have used the tried and tested Audi stage 1 engine which consists of an overbore to 1.9L, forged JE pistons and corillo light weight conrods. i have used ACL race bearings, and i had all internals lightened and dynamically balanced along with the G60 clutch set up. None of these parts are particularly expensive and the head, cams and ancillary items are all std items. ( i was lucky enough to buy the engine complete, and then stripped and rebuilt it just to make sure. I fitted new coil packs (genuine audi at only �18 each a bargain !!) I have used the tried and tested subaru imprezza Sti Turbocharger (IHI VF34 roller bearing) I used this for a couple of reasons it is known to be very strong and also to spool up very quickly illiminating turbo lag. It also produces 360 BHP at only 1.4 bar and has roller bearing internals. Plenty of mappers have worked with these units and know how to map around the lag in order to give gentle progressive power.
is that all up and running now then? looks very good. why are people ie you and sean running the exhaust over the subframe and through the alloy panel that holds the back box up instead of like bernard straight downand under the sub frame? Any reason or just cos it looks nice?
is that all up and running now then? looks very good. why are people ie you and sean running the exhaust over the subframe and through the alloy panel that holds the back box up instead of like bernard straight downand under the sub frame? Any reason or just cos it looks nice?
YES its all up and running now…The exhaust was done in this way not for looks but for very non restrictive flow of air. It is very good at producing power which it did on mine; but not so good at producing back pressure which is needed to control the boost…(it’s complex, but i think in application bernards system works better until you go to the next level like shaun has - then this way i believe to be better…) It’s not quite as cut and dry as my answer makes out, but we could fill another post with the details…
The standard Audi mounts do not locate the engine too well in a lateral direction. With high grip tyres you will find it a problem.
The oil drain into the sump seems to be hose secured with a hose clip. There is very hot oil running through there into the sump, if it fails you will get a sumpfull of hot oil over the exhaust, could be a disaster.
Inrigued how you managed to get clearance for a standard Audi driveshaft on the left side, must be real close to the subframe ?
Most people want the exhaust to follow the normal route so they can use a CAT for the MOT. At high powers (350 BHP+) it’s a bit restrictive due to the tightness of the bends and the diameter of the tube you can squeeze in between the driveshaft and the subframe.
The standard Audi mounts do not locate the engine too well in a lateral direction. With high grip tyres you will find it a problem.
I guess that only testing and time will provide me with this kind of data, they seem OK to me but with all respect i don’t have the R&D behind me to back this up at the moment…
The oil drain into the sump seems to be hose secured with a hose clip. There is very hot oil running through there into the sump, if it fails you will get a sumpfull of hot oil over the exhaust, could be a disaster.
Totally agree on this point and although this is evident from the pictures, it is only because i am still awaiting the correct perpose built pipes to be made locally…
Inrigued how you managed to get clearance for a standard Audi driveshaft on the left side, must be real close to the subframe ?
It is something to do with Smoke and Mirrors !!! No but seriously there seems to be enough room on my install as it sits in a different position in both the lateral and longtitudinal planes…
Most people want the exhaust to follow the normal route so they can use a CAT for the MOT. At high powers (350 BHP+) it’s a bit restrictive due to the tightness of the bends and the diameter of the tube you can squeeze in between the driveshaft and the subframe.
I am pretty sure chris used the original oil filter housing. I certainly did, I ditched the original audi tiny oil/water cooler and put a Mocal sandwich plate that feeds an external oil cooler and then used a slimline filter from a Renault 4. There is loads of room.