My alternator has died and is beyond repair. Can anyone point me in the right direction to get a reconditioned one or have one surplus to requirement? Or do you think it’s a better idea to get a new one from Geary?
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers Aaron
I’d say recon is the way to go.
Find somebody that does them can be tricky I understand. Horizon in Birmingham did mine. Off, reconned (by a 3rd party) and re-fitted in about 5 hours.
You got an A/c car? They’re a bitch to fit.
Ian
Directly from BRISE
Hi Ian
Yes it�s an Air con car think I will let MSC fit it. Will give horizon a call now. cheers
Uldis I just gave BRISE a call they only supply a lightweight one at a cost of �195+Vat he also says it�s slightly smaller than the standard but should still have the same fittings. Do you think its worth the additional cost compared to the one Geary supplies at �139+Vat?
Thanks
Aaron
I do.
When my alternator goes, that’s the one I’m getting.
(but so far mine has worked perfectly)
My way of thinking is when I replace something, will always replace it with something lighter and/or better.
But then I’m a freak
I thought a number of different ones had been tried and no good alternative had yet been found.
You maybe experimenting (and given the labour, not cheaply).
Don’t forget to fit some ducting to help it from happening again, it’s a simple sub-�5 Halfords fix (I thought I’d posted some pics on that, but can’t find them).
Ian
I thought a number of different ones had been tried and no good alternative had yet been found.
I thought that too. Although it was a couple of years ago that I fried mine and there were “issues” with replacing with the Eliseparts one which menat it was not as good as the original - I can’t remember the full details right now but I think its output is below that recommended by Lotus. Also its a hell of alot more expensive. A recon one cost me �75 quid from my local electrical repair specialist in Wakefield.
I didn’t know there were issues.
And I know it’s more expensive, but it’s smaller and lighter
But Like Ian says, the ducting to cool it is a must. I have had no issues with mine after 35K miles (other than a broken wire terminal but that’s vibration) and always had the ducting.
Mine came with it from factory.
I didn’t know there were issues.
I’m away from home right now, but when I’m back I’ll try and dig out the details…
fwiw, my Eliseparts alternator has done ~50K or so on my Duratec without any issues and provides enough charge at idle with lights off, although with lights on you need a touch more rpm, else you get about 0.2v less than required. I’d guess that’d wear the battery down in about a day of sitting at idle
For what it’s worth the I believe the Brise alternators are very good but just beware as I think that most of the ‘light weight’ alternators out there are based on motorcycle internals and therefore don’t charge much below the region of 3-4000 rpm. Fine in a racer, not so good otherwise.
A standard alternator with good heat shielding and ventilation should be absolutely fine. Also it tends to be the rectifier that fails first and these can be replaced separately.
HTH
A standard alternator with good heat shielding and ventilation should be absolutely fine. Also it tends to be the rectifier that fails first and these can be replaced separately.
I thought it was that the std alt wasn’t designed for 8000rpm.
But agree on the rectifier, I think that’s where most go. The bugger still needs to come out for that to be changed though (doesn’t it?). Which is a good portion of the cost.
Ian