Hi,
any advice whats the best position to remove the iacv on the vhpd, i can think of 2 options but before i try, maybe one of you has advice on this
1 from the bottom ie remove undertray, maybe cat and then get access
2 from top, remove airfilterbox and then get access
thx Marten
Just about to do this job myself - anyone done it before and offer any advice or guidance?
Access from below is quite restricted by the driveshaft etc and from above by the throttle bodies.
I did it from above by removing the boot divider, airbox then the airhorns and airbox backplate. - This just give you the ability to see what you’re doing rather than the space to do it.
It also gave to opportunity to fit quick release fasteners to the airbox and backplate too.
There’s only one screw holding the IACV in the clip and then one screw that attaches the clip to the block. The rest is just hose clips of various types and sizes.
why remove it ? whats the reason for doing so
Did mine by removing the alloy panel below the Airbox.
To clean it - apparently it gets gunked up in use.
Thanks all - I have the boot panel removed already so will try and get in this way.
Hopefully, the valve will not be too badly gunked up (if at all) as the rocker cover and crankcase have been breathing in a catch tank for the last few years.
I can’t find an easy way to remove the bottom two bolts from the airbox to get access…
But bear in mind that if its a poor cold idle you’ve got, its worthwhile checking the vacuum pipes for splits, as I was told this can also cause the case the same problem.
None-the-less, my cleaning the IACV on my S160 every 12 months always gave an improvement, so I suspect its worth doing.
[quote=MattyB]
I can’t find an easy way to remove the bottom two bolts from the airbox to get access…[/quote]
Have you tried removing the boot front lip panel first?
Checked them all - they are all discoloured and I cleaned quite a bit of gunk out of them but none were split.
Hi Marten
Do you can remove the IACV on TB,S VHPD, just need put 2 plugs in place to the air does not enter.
To have a good idle is required prior to put 2 vacuum gauges to the synchro on the TB, S bodies 1 and 2 until obtain the same or similar values from the spikes that are at the top.
Also remember to make the synchro on the TPS sensor and the ECU.
The approx value to the ignition would be 8 to 10 degrees.
All the best
Vicente
[quote=marten]Hi,
any advice whats the best position to remove the iacv on the vhpd, i can think of 2 options but before i try, maybe one of you has advice on this
1 from the bottom ie remove undertray, maybe cat and then get access
2 from top, remove airfilterbox and then get access
thx Marten [/quote]
Just a few photos of the valve. It appears to have a Bosch part number:
Can anyone advise as to whether the roller barrel should be partially open at rest/when unpowered?
Steve,
Bit late I suspect, but my roller barrel was partially open like yours was.
Tell you what, PITA getting that thing out without removing the airbox, but do-able. Just letting mine dry out, then I’ll refit and see if its improved at all.
Bit of a high wind today though, so had to make some minor modifications to stop the engine cover flying away 
Matt thanks for the answer. Was a little concerned that mine was out of adjustment and what appeared to be the initial adjustment screw had been glued/locked. The opening of mine was at the top rather than the bottom of the sliding barrel, although I suspect it makes no real difference.
Amazed you got it out without removing the airbox you must have been working blind.
Did you get much muck & crap out? Mine very amazingly clean given I do not think it has ever been cleaned in 50k miles. I think re-routing the rocker cover breather into the catch tank has made all the difference.