Front off to do the rad/screen, the A/c compressor/condenser (whatever the heavy bit up the front is) is knackered.
So, �300+tax,fit,etc for a new one. It cost �1200 to start with so I’m rather loathed just to bin it but at the same time I’m rather loathed to spend any money on it as it’s hardly the greatest performing thing I’ve ever had on a car.
Never had it, never offered it, never missed it and would have never paid that much as an option in any event.
However, James May’s time in the Aston race car whilst the Top Gear team were looking for the best driving roads in the world brought back memories (guilty in the case of subjecting the girlfriend to such conditions) of many a summer holiday in the mountains.
If I was now in your shoes I would replace it and ensure you keep it in top notch.
When buying my S1, people warned me not to get one without aircon, especially in the warm NZ climate. Since I’ve had it though, although I’ve found it hotter than my Elise, I’ve not felt like I’d have been better with the aircon model, and with the car tipping the scales at around 750kg, I like the weight saving!
I think it was Uldis that patched up all the seals and stuff in bluckhead to stop heat ingress into the cabin from the engine, I seem to remember someone saying it made quite a difference…
I removed my aircon last summer as it didn’t work anyway as an aircon in the common sense… the extra vents are ok, but I did not notice any improvement of temperature… True, it gets hotter inside than in an Elise… Drink a lot of water in summer,
and as dave says, open windows, drive fast
Fitted a valve in the water pipe to the heater box so i can cut the hot water supply to the heaterbox.The problem is that the heater box itself is so warm that it overpowers the cooling from the air-con.Also make sure the system is well charged and there is no leak from the junction box where the air-con pipes join just above the heater box-also have the recirculation on so that it sucks air from inside the car.It still isnt brilliant but makes a difference enough to make it worthwhile.
I presume the valve you fitted has a bypass leg which allows the water to continue circulating?? Otherwise there will be no coolant flow on warm up and restricted flow under normal running conditions which will lead to overheating of the cylinder head metal. Or have you fitted a PRT thermostat too?
Blime the a/c is heavy! The box of bits (not all of it as it was only a basic strip out but includes the stuff from the old alternator mounting) weighs 15kgs!