I have been offered a 3.1" pulley at a mate’s rate. I believe it’s from Monkey Wrench Racing.
According to MRW website, it fits a 220 without any mods required - injectors, re-map.
If you dig around enough, you’ll only come to the conclusion that nobody really agrees on whether you can just bolt one on or not
I can’t really help too much, but I do know that with my 440cc injectors from the 260 upgrade that I’m already close to maxing them out on the original pulley. I reach 92% duty cycle on them with a full load pull. If you hit 100%, then you risk the car leaning out and potentially causing damage. I’ll be switching to a smaller pulley at some point in the future, but it’ll need to come with some bigger injectors (probably 550cc).
How that extrapolates down to a 220 map, I can’t say - but at the very least I’d plan on running the car on a dyno after fitting so you can have somebody measure the AFRs over a few pulls, as you can’t monitor your injector duty easily on the factory ECU.
My gut says it’ll be fine, Lotus maps are generally rich out of the box so you’ve got margin built in - but I’d want it checking before using the car hard.
My experience with Lotus is that if it directly fits, it means something else needs changing.
If it doesnt fit then it will need changing to make it fit and then nothing else will need changing.
I would do exactly what Fonzey says. If you fit it ensure you are data logging cos mates rates on a pulley is significantly cheaper than a 2ZZ with det holes in pistons.
Yup, 100% at the pedal is something like 70% at the TB. Can’t remember the exact amount.
I guess it might still make a bit more power? It’s still throwing more boost in regardless of throttle opening but the added restriction of the part-opened throttle isn’t going to help intake temps.
“260 upgrade” traditional route would be a much more effective use of time/effort to increase performance. But I appreciate you (probably) don’t have a freebie ECU and Injectors sat there waiting to go
As previously stated, the 330cc injectors are not good enough for any extra performance, you will need 440cc injectors and a map with full throttle enabled.
Personally, I’d add a new fuel pump, it will have degraded over time and gets close to it’s limit without running a smaller pulley, lastly your clutch will fail if it is still the factory 220 clutch, mine span out on the dyno at peak torque
It’s just a relatively easy way to artificially cap power, either because they had intentions of releasing higher power models later (240 and 260) or because they were still testing the waters with reliability etc (or both!).
I’ve had a look at a couple of EMU Black cars that are running dual maps, more often than not there’s a tiny difference in ignition timing and throttle maps to make the “conservative” map less sharp, and the “wide open throttle” is capped at something like 85 or 90% to limit power.
Turbo cars can often run a boost by gear maps to limit torque in certain gears when traction is poor or even when a gearbox/drivetrain component is at risk of damage. Superchargers don’t have that capability because their output is limited only by the rotation of the engine, so DBW shenanigans can also be used to limit torque in certain scenarios too.
240hp cars are ok, 220 cars have chocolate clutches, in my mind for someone going down this road it is better to plan for a clutch than hope it will be ok, same with the gearbox when you go north of 280hp or so. Plan it in then you won’t get such a big surprise later…
When I took my 220 clutch out, it had been running 260 for about 12 trackdays and 280 for 4 or 5. No visible signs of excessive wear or evidence of slipping, but it would have been stupid to put it back in.