Yes mate - indeed - I bloody hope so !
So new engine is run in (on dyno) and car back together - a few niggles with the EMU and the aircon. - but quickly sorted. Car went on dyno for mapping - was over boosting… Seems my CAT is knackered.
I have an early 2bular manifold and sportscat, which has a Flexi section. The latest sportscat does not have this, so Jim made me up a new cat, and a ‘donut’ connector to give some flex. As has always been the case for me, Jim turned this around quickly.
H111 due to fit the new Cat today - but wanted to know if I was happy without the Flexi section - which as far as I know is the same for oem and larini and others (i.e. no Flexi) - I think they were concerned as I have the engine mount inserts.
Can I solicit any other owners who have aftermarket manifolds and cats and also engine mount inserts that this has not caused them any issues ?
2bular full system including non-flexi sport cat on mine, yellow bushes front and rear of engine - no problems at all… yet
No flexi on mine either, and the OE system has no flexi either…
Its Back !
Update later - but picked up car this morning… feels good so far
Excellent news, looking forward to a proper update
ok… so picked up car on Thursday from Hangar 111 - its been a while, but they fitted me in between other jobs as Toyota did not cover labour on the new engine warranty. Headline figures - 298hp and 199 lbs/ft - more than I was expecting - but of course its a rolling road, you never know how accurate - but - it now goes like a stabbed rat - the torque hole in the standard and even Komotec maps using the T4 ecu are gone.
When I got home, I took my son out in it, we happened across an Evora 410 on some country roads - we kept up, under acceleration too
The EMU also now catches any potential stall upon dipping the clutch, well known on here on manual throttle cars especially. I haven’t yet connected to usb to look at the ECU - although I won’t play with it, as it feels good to me. I may need another ‘map’ for MOT, but not sure yet…
Overall, happy with car now its back
Great news!
Folks - those of you with EMU black - it takes a couple of minutes for the fuel level to get to its actual level sometimes - do you guys see that at all ?
I have a gar, but didn’t get that behaviour with the stock ECU
Mine has been fine, though I did notice my first fill-up with the ADU initially emptied the gauge and it gradually refilled after a mile or so but it’s not happened since so I put it down to some kind of calibration process (?)
Do you know what firmware you’re running? The last “stable” release is reeeeeeeeally old now, most people I know are running the latest versions from ECUMaster.com/tv which are technically test versions but the changelog since the last stable edition is extensive.
Version 2.115 specially calls out a fix to Lotus fuel gauge
haven’t connected to it yet - H111 said its on latest but don’t know if that’s the stable version or not…
ok… so advice from fellow EMU black or mapped car owners…
I took my car for an emissions test - at 2500 it fails at 1.04% CO, but passes at 1500. Thats ok, but I am now concerned that the CO is going to be much higher as the revs climb which in turn will kill my sports cat over time. Has anyone similar numbers and knows if their CO does indeed climb ? I have also asked Hangar 111, but no response yet…
ok… so advice from fellow EMU black or mapped car owners…
I took my car for an emissions test - at 2500 it fails at 1.04% CO, but passes at 1500. Thats ok, but I am now concerned that the CO is going to be much higher as the revs climb which in turn will kill my sports cat over time. Has anyone similar numbers and knows if their CO does indeed climb ? I have also asked Hangar 111, but no response yet…
Just checked my photos but I didn’t get one from the emissions print out, sorry
What’s your lambda target at 2500rpm and did the MOT print out match that? I appreciate Lambda =/= CO but there may be a correlation or indication of whether something isn’t right or not.
lambda is 0.96 at 2500 and 0.99 at 1500 - both are a pass - I don’t really understand Lambda though
lambda is 0.96 at 2500 and 0.99 at 1500 - both are a pass - I don’t really understand Lambda though
1.0 Lambda = 14.7 AFR. 1.0 indicates a ‘perfect burn’ with as minimal wastage as possible. Above 1.0 is lean, below 1.0 is rich.
My idle range is all set with a target of 1.0. When I first collected the car from RRR, for some reason it was 0.95 (I think as a way to stabilise the idle, not sure) which was giving me an MOT fail. I moved it to 1.0 and suddenly it breezed through the MOT, but I had to do work elsewhere on the ECU to sort the idle out (which I’ve now done).
If you have easy access to the MOT machine to retest, it may be worth playing around with it to see if it influences the CO figures. You can be at 1.0 lambda for any/all low load cells on the map, you only need to start throwing more fuel at it once you’re getting to the high load/boost areas of the map. Some people/cars even throw in cruise cells that are leaner than 1.0 for fuel economy on runs, but that’s a bit of an environmental no-no because it increases nox emission, or something.
Those of you running 280+ horses with chargecoolers etc… how hot does your rear clam get on when you’ve been on it… on the rear arches and above the number plate?
Maybe I didn’t notice it before, or car had some time to cool down before I parked it, but it was almost too hot to touch in places…. Boot floor wasn’t too bad though….
Those of you running 280+ horses with chargecoolers etc… how hot does your rear clam get on when you’ve been on it… on the rear arches and above the number plate?
Maybe I didn’t notice it before, or car had some time to cool down before I parked it, but it was almost too hot to touch in places…. Boot floor wasn’t too bad though….
“Quite” is probably my answer I would give. Particularly around where the cat to backbox u-bend is.
As with most my stock snailshell heatshield there was long gone, so I’ve wrapped the u-bend itself (expect to redo it every 18-24months) and also got some self adhesive heatshield material that they line the inside of motorbike farings with, stuck that to the inside of the clam behind the arch liner.
sticky reflective heat shield inside the clam…sorted