<Archived> Even supercars have their flaws..
Well.. the RPM causes the heat... ;-)This is exactly why Geary has developed a lightweight race-style alternator. Its geared so its not stressed at higher RPM and its a shedload lighter than the orginal.Pic here: http://www.eliseparts.com/products_page ... mount2.htm Cheers, Bri[This message has been edited by bdrought (edited 23 December 2002).]
Well I've now suffered the dreaded alternator burnout. Battery charge light came on at Elvington early after lunch and that was game over .Taken it out today and found that not only had one of the copper wires connecting to the brushes had come adrift but there were actually sections of the main winding loose inside, could see at least two sections about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long.It was an absolute bugger to get out with the top securing bolt fouling the heatshield and then the manifold.Am thinking about geary's alternative one and will see what else is available at the Autosport show tomorrow...
Steve,Were the end of the brushes also badly chipped as well??Had that same fault at Nurburgring, the broken copper wire, it's down to bouncing brushes due to the high RPMLet us all know how you get on with Gearys alternator!!! Nice and small and ooh look a bigger pulley on it!! Any one know if he sells just the pulley on it's own?? [This message has been edited by Dave Kelly (edited 12 January 2003).]
[image]ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/confused.gif[/image]Spoke with Cambridge motorsport at the show today - the Nippon Denso unit they sell is the same unit that Brise, Eliseparts etc sell - they reckon those units are ok to 18K rpm ... I had the 45 amp fitted to my mini and that was pulling 9.5K and it survived with a relative small pulley.Seems the solution is as Dave sayes buy a ND unit, fit Gearys pulley and heatsheild and the problem should be solved. [image]ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image]
This is from the Elise BBS in reply to a query about the Eliseparts alt.........sort of depends on what you do with the car.If your into night crusing around your locality etc. then it's probably not for you!If it's general use and track days then it is.I assume your looking at the kit on Geary site?This is using the same ND alt that Brise/DT/Cambridge Motorsport/etc. use, but with a properly engineed bracket adaptor (not the single sided crap) and custom made pulley. It still uses the std lenght alt belt and comes with a small wiring kit.I have been using this type for some time now, (orriginally a kit from Brise), and having bug-fixed the issues I had with them, they are a big improvement in both size and weight (you can change it one handed from the side/above/below).Only thing to note is that they are rated at 40A (they will supply 50A and this is how Brise rate them, but they are all the same and ND call them 40A) as opposed to the std item that's 85A.This is not a problem unless your into driving at tickover all night with more lights than you can shake a stick at and the heater going full bore allong with your 4Kw ICE!Simon (S)BTW std alt is 5Kg's (bare) the ND one is just under 2.5Kg's I hope Simon doesn't mind me copying his reply for those interested here.
quote:Originally posted by Dave Kelly:Steve,Were the end of the brushes also badly chipped as well??No they weren't, just well worn for the mileage I had done.Didn't realise Geay's alternator was not the same output spec - shame its not mentioned on his site (unless I missed it!). I think I will have to sit down and calculate just what the full current draw will be with lights on, heater on full, wpiers going full pelt, etc and see if its anywhere near the 45amp mark. Doea anyone know how to calculate the running load the engine will draw for ECU, spark, etc without counting any accessories?[This message has been edited by stevegreen (edited 13 January 2003).]
We did a current draw test on brothers car and with everything on (well except cooling fan!!) we managed a draw of, I think it was around 58 Amps, add to that the cooling fan and wey hay, that's getting pretty high!!Must admit I thought the standard Rover 200 alt might have been a cheaper alternative to the Lotus one but is only 65A and not 85A as we use. Having done the draw test I see why they plump for the big one!!!!The best way to measure it is with an inductive amp clamp if you have one or if you know any friendly AA men, we use them every day, so have a word with him (or her!!)Just clamp round the Bat neg lead (alternator disabled) and load her up!!!oh even the position of the heater controls make a differance as the flappy bit is controled by solinoids instead of cables, clever these Lotie people!!![This message has been edited by Dave Kelly (edited 14 January 2003).]