S1 Exige Conversion

Topics relating to the Lotus Exige S1 (series 1)
Sub Boy
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2021 10:34 pm

Any more updates James? What’s the go with the VHPD throttles?
jamesjeffery
Posts: 235
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:37 am

There's been a little bit of movement, nothing major and I was planning to update but been super busy.
Elise-shop motorsport cables ordered so waiting for them to arrive and fit so car is up on axel stands at the moment with the floor off.

Regarding the Throttle bodies unfortunately they wouldn't be going on the car for a good few years (really pushing for a house deposit and after that money on the house), plus I wouldn't want to push my engine any harder than it currently is on a stock bottom end.
I'd have to either source some Trophy pistons or go fully forged later on with a full engine rebuild, but like I say that is well down the line so will be sticking with my current set up on the plenum and will just have to keep short shifting at 6000rpm to avoid the super lean running above that limit with my dodgy EFI ecu.
Car is still super fun with just 150hp at 6000rpm and some time down the line I'll go Emerald and access where to take the engine from there.

I'll update soon regarding the small updates I've done so far, I just wanted a break from it for a few weeks after the trackdays as it had become a bit all consuming in the run up to them after being sprayed.
jamesjeffery
Posts: 235
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:37 am

Just a quick update to keep the thread ticking over.

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After limping the car home I have bought some Elise-Shop gear cables as I see these as the beefiest option, the way to go with how I change gears! The order is still being processed so just have to wait for now.
With the car off the road I can still crack on with a lot of stuff.

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With the rear wheels off I was able to inspect how much my 255 tyres had rubbed, which I could definitely hear each time I went over any kind of bump. Weirdly, only the driver side had rubbed so I must have been able to get the nearside to fit much snugger against the chassis. Even so, the rubbing that had happened wasn't so bad at all, the same as what my Elise wheels did to my old liners.

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A task I'd meant to do for a little while was to finish off the doors with the rubber cheater seal things by the A pillar.

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I got these new from Paul Matty and as I couldn't be bothered to try and get the longer tab behind the window runner (I think I actually snapped the old ones out so the original tabs should still be behind there) I just cut it off and decided to glue them on.

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To hold them in place I used tape to keep them sitting flush against the door while the glue set.

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Next day I removed the tape and was glad to find they had stayed in position and another job done.
jamesjeffery
Posts: 235
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:37 am

When I put a new lense on my Elise front clam I used the usual sticky putty type adhesive, which stuck them down very well but immediately a spider decided to get behind it and make a web. With the lenses being secured in this way I had to access through the wheelarch and take the headlight out, all a bit of a faff. To avoid this, I wanted to try a method with easy removal to clean this area from time to time.

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I decided to use some strong 3M Velcro to try to secure the lenses. I had to cut it down to make it narrower so it wouldn't be seen under the black tape.

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I placed the furry side onto the lenses as it was slightly lighter than the loop side, as close to the edge as I could.

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I then cut the loop side down and placed it onto the lenses too. I will attach the whole unit as one onto the car to get the best match between the two strips.

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One concern is that the loop side is quite wavy, but I'm hoping this straightens out like the furry strip once it is secured to the clam.

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Not a great picture but I noticed one of the lenses was fairly scratched, so I tried to remove them and clean up the lenses as best I could.

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I clamped my DA polisher to my workmate and used my compound and polish on both sides of the lense.

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They came up really well and only a few deeper scratches remained. I then finished them with some wax.

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With the constant sanding and time in the bodyshop the engine bay had become covered in dust. I had asked them to blow the worst off using an airline but unfortunately this never happened.

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I used some detailer to get the worst off and a make up brush to work the little nooks.

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After a quick and light water the majority of the crap was gone and the engine bay was looking much better.

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While I had the DA and polish out I decided to add the rest of the finisher panels. They polished up well too and removed most of the small storage scratches.

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I still need to add the Exige rocker cover piece and the boot divider, but I'm going to have to work out how I'm going to bend my new aluminum sheet for my DIY divider.

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With the engine cover open I decided to fit the latch cover. On test fitting I found that I'd needed to make some adjustments. The sensor was too tight to the clam edge, the slot for the spring mech wasn't long enough and the latch hit the cover.

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I packed the sensor out very bodged leaving just enough thread for the washer and nut.

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I opened up the spring mech slot and sanded a small groove so the latch wouldn't foul the cover. I then drilled 2 holes for the plastic fasteners and it was done. Much neater than the open latch mech.
jamesjeffery
Posts: 235
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:37 am

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I had kept the white vinegar solution from the front disc clean up, so I placed the rear discs in it and left it a week to blitz all the surface rust.
After soaking in bicarb water to neutralize them I scrubbed and cleaned them up.

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Rather than taping up the contact surface like the fronts I would try a different method with the rears, I still taped up the hub contact surface though.

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I also removed the front discs as I wanted to spray in the grooves and the bell bolts. As only these pieces were being sprayed I did tape it roughly.

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As I need to replace my rear pads I decided to spray the whole disc as the many grooves and dips in the surface would have been a right pain to mask up. I only lightly dusted the contact surface whereas the central hub got a few more thorough coats. I'll go for a drive to take off the paint on the contact surface, then swap out the pads for nice new ones.

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All ready to go back on the car, no more rust!

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Need to wait for a few other bits to be sorted before I can take it for a drive, but when putting the discs back on I noticed that a few huge chunks had fallen off a couple of the pads, so definitely time to replace them and a little concerning that it was probably like that for the trackdays.
I'll update after the drive to show what they look like after a scrub and then behind the wheels.
Last edited by jamesjeffery on Fri Jul 16, 2021 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
jamesjeffery
Posts: 235
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:37 am

One thing I wasn't able to get sorted in time for the trackdays were the extra wheelarch pieces. Unfortunately with these areas open a load of crap, rubber and stones had collected behind the oversills, meaning I had to remove the bolts and clean behind them.

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I cracked out some CAD supplies (Cardboard Aided Design) and made up templates. I then transferred them to some plastic sheeting (the same sheet as I planned to use for the lighting loom fixing) and cut them out. It was quite handy that this sheet had a matte side to match the liners.

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I also had a fair bit of weather seal left over from not being used for the engine cover, so I made sure it was tight against the oversills to keep as much crap out as I could.

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My sills had the holes for the mudflaps, so I made another template and marked the hole positions onto the new sheets, finished off with plastic fasteners. I also drilled 2 new holes into the sills to secure the other side.

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The rears were made using the same method, requiring a few new holes for fixing and weather strips along the side and bottom to keep as much crap from getting behind the clam.

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While I had the drill and fasteners out I decided to secure the front oversills.

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I found the rubber stops I bought a while back so decided to add them to the sill and doors.

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I couldn't really remember where they went so I put one on the sill by the B pillar and 2 more on the bottom of the door, each by the adjustment screws to help prevent them fouling against the sill when adjusting the doors.
jamesjeffery
Posts: 235
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:37 am

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I moved onto the front clam faux grilles next, something I'd been putting off to be honest.
Because I wasn't using the usual plastic fasteners I decided to use some glue to fix the grilles onto the plastic backing. One didn't want to stay flush at the top, so I used a locking plier to keep it in place while the glue set.

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Unfortunately despite trying to be as tidy as possible the glue did leave nasty white stains on the side and a bit went into the front (which I forgot to take a picture of so here's the back to give an idea of the white marks).

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Although these had been sprayed before I decided to ask another favour and get them done again. However, because I had glued the plastic to the grilles they couldn't be powder coated, but a quick wet spray got them looking great.
I also asked him to spray my wheelnuts again matte black as the paint I used chipped off pretty quickly. I think they were powder coated so hopefully last a bit longer.

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I used the poly adhesive again, but because it had been open a while now I think it had gone off slightly, which actually made it easier to work with. However it had lost a bit of its tackiness and didn't want to bond onto the plastic very well.
After one failed attempt where the adhesive simply peeled off I decided to rough up the plastic bonding surface with my Dremel and sand disc which allowed for much better grip for the adhesive.

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I loaded up the plastic with a generous amount of adhesive (this is the failed attempt before roughing the surface and adding even more glue), placed it into the slot and taped it in place (trying to keep the top from popping back out hence more tape) and left it for 24 hours.

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Quite happy with how they came out, the tape has caused a bit of rippling in the paint but nothing too noticable and at a later date I can always tape up the area and give it one last blast with a spray can. I still think they look better than the plastic fastening method (they look better in person, crap photo).

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I ordered a new numberplate for the front and luckily had 2 strips of the special Velcro left to fix it, I'll just have to remember to remove it before going on track.
I also straightened up the towing eye by adding a small rubber washer which packed the thread out just enough to become tight when horizontal.

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During the Anglesey trackday I lost one of the oversill rubbers, not sure why just one fell off and not both but there you go.
I luckily had just about enough left spare to replace it, but this time I decided to apply a small amount of glue to secure them more permanently.
Ste
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2014 7:06 am

Word of caution: The paint on your disks, on the wheel mounting surface, will become hot and compress after your first drive. Your wheels will then come loose. You can either keep tightening them or remove the paint from that mounting surface.
jamesjeffery
Posts: 235
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2020 10:37 am

Good point, on the front discs for the trackday I noticed the paint indented so isn't particularly tough, but what I might do is torque the wheel, see where it indents and remove the paint front there. That way it keeps the black look without compromising the contact 👍
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