Suspension Refresh

Topics relating to the series 1 Exige
Esprit
Posts: 949
Joined: Sat May 26, 2007 1:11 pm
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by Esprit » Fri Jan 23, 2015 12:28 am

Excellent write up!

Just FYI, here's a quick snap I took a couple of months back when replacing a CV joint of my LR suspension. This is what the Zinc passivated/Clear-POR'd wishbones look like after 4 years or so on the road, still like new. Granted mine's a bit pampered, but other than the odd dry wipedown, it's not had any cleaning since I did it back in 2008.

Note the rear calipers I also did in clear POR and the uprights in black POR.

Image

User avatar
dris
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 10:46 pm

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by dris » Fri Jan 23, 2015 7:04 pm

Hi George, thank you. I think you've heard it before but your thread gave inspiration to many including myself.

Your suspension still looks great even after the years. Is there anything that you would have done different?

Ive a question to anyone, I want to clean the uprights and hubs but want to do it without having to separate them (I'll be keeping the current bearings in for now) is there a way without damaging the bearings?

User avatar
jonnyfox
Posts: 9030
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 10:00 am
Location: Brum
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 5 times

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by jonnyfox » Fri Jan 23, 2015 10:10 pm

They're not particulally expensive though Dris, why not, if you're going to do a job and all that..... It'll only bother you later.
#498

Esprit
Posts: 949
Joined: Sat May 26, 2007 1:11 pm
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by Esprit » Sat Jan 24, 2015 12:32 am

Well, you could keep the bearings and hubs together and just wire brush them all up, but doing wheel bearings is a good move if you're replacing everything else.

My one regret with my car is not replacing the (rear) hubs when I was doing all the suspension. In the above picture, I was trying to track down a scraping/grinding noise I'd had since shortly after I put the car together. I put a new outer CV joint on it because I'd convinced myself it was that. That didn't fix it and I ended up pulling the hub apart to replace a wheel bearing (the bearing was new only 2 years previous. I found out that the bearing was knackered because the hub had started to fall to bits given track abuse and it had ovaled slightly knackering each new bearing I threw at it in a matter of a few months.

The EP hubs are made of a lot sterner stuff than the stock items and aren't as prone to do it. I DO give my car absolute death on track though, so for a road car/occasional tracker I wouldn't bother, but on mine it'd have saved me some time and effort doing them first time around.

I still have to do the RR hub/bearing at some point. They're still okay, but the left one clapped out in spectacular fashion (could wobble the wheel a LOT), so will do the other side as a precaution.

For me I've got no regrets really. All the finishes I chose have proven to remain good looking and durable.

Perhaps the only regrets was timing, in that I did it before the Nitron 46mm shocks came out (mine are 42s) and before the Nirton uniball bushes were available. Having said that, I've yet to find fault with the OEM Lotus rubber bushes and in the end they're probably the better solution for a car that's used on NZ roads (we have a very coarse chip surface over here that's noisy enough as it is). And I've not been able to fault the Nitron 42s (Randy-valveed), but I know now that the 46s have become the later/better evolution.

Still, It's easy to upgrade these things in future if I want to, and given the car sees about 90% road use and very little track use at the moment (Because track duty is being filled by my cockroach race car) it's more than hardcore enough for the road :)

User avatar
dris
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 10:46 pm

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by dris » Thu Jan 29, 2015 9:33 pm

Day 6

This was done last weekend but just got around to sorting out the pictures.

I looked for a guide on the rear corner but couldn't find one (the previous link covered the front) so just worked from top down, supporting the bottom wishbone and driveshaft with an axle stand when needed.

First off was to slacken off the wheel hub nut (preferably before putting on axle stands by putting the wheel back on minus the centre cap and releasing using the weight of the car to hold still.....that's what I had to do on the offside anyway)

Image

Then to disconnect the brake hose clip and the handbreak cable clip

Image

...and release the handbreak cable from the caliper

Image


I then removed the small aluminium block containing the speed sensor (I think)
Image

Now I started to remove the rear caliper, first by releasing the retaining pin.
I found a tap on a thin screwdriver to get it moving then pulling out totally with pliers...remembering to catch the spring as it flies off somewhere rather than searching all over for it.

Image

Then the outermost brake pad was removed, slight tap from a small rubber mallet (but not a hammer).

Image

The brake disc can be removed, mine needed a bit of persuading.

Image

Then the inboard pad was removed.

Image

Now I could remove the brake caliper from the hub by undoing the top bolt.
The caliper then could be slid inboard and placed on the floor without strain to the brake line

Image

Next to come off was the shock assembly, top and bottom bolts undone allows it to be removed by a bit of tapping from underneath.

Top joint

Image

Bottom joint

Image

Shock off the car....looks better than the front one.

Image

Undoing the top ball joint

Image

And then the 2 plinth bolts with the 8mm hex socket...I believe these are the 2 that have broken on some cars...I'll be replacing all the bolts with new ones

Image

Then pop the joint with the ball joint breaker

Image

The top wishbone can be removed by undoing the forward joint nut and bolt (no picture but straight forward)
Then the rear joint.

Image

Then a bit of wiggling and then wishbone comes out.

Drive shaft then needs supporting (I'll be giving that a clean and paint before reassembly)

Image

Bottom wishbone ball joint nut then removed

Image

And joint split with the ball joint splitter.

Next I removed the nut for the toe link

Image

Then finally was the bottom wishbone, forward joint bolt removed (captive nut in the bracket)

Image

The rear joint was a right pain. As there's a heat sheild on the nearside (but not the offside) I struggled to get the toe link (and hence the bolt holding the wishbone) out.
I managed to undo the lower bolt holding the heat shield and bend it so that I would be able to remove the toe link.
I will be fitting the elise shop uprated toe link so need to find a way to get at the existing bolts holding on the heat shield
Anyway with a long extension and spanner on the toe link was able to remove it

Image

Image

Image

Day 7

I was able to remove the offside rear suspension/brakes/etc

Day 8

Removing ball joints and wishbone bushes.

Not having a vice in the garage I ordered the Ball joint remover and bush removal tool.

Having a ratchet gun here would have cut down on time but anyway took around 1.25 hours to do the 8 joints

I removed both the circlips and boot

Image

Then used the tool to push out the old ball joint....this tool can be used on the car if needed

Image

And then for the bushes I also used another tool to push out the bushes

Image

The bushes still looked ok and weren't damaged by the tool

Image

The wishbones, plinths etc are now ready to go off to be sandblasted.

Question has anyone removed the standard heat sheild for the toe link?
Is it an cat removal job first ?

Does anyone sell all the p-clips for the brake lines etc fitted to the wishbones?

lotuslee
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2014 5:58 pm

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by lotuslee » Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:22 pm

Question has anyone removed the standard heat sheild for the toe link?
Is it an cat removal job first ?
I removed my full exhaust and cat, from manifold to get to heat sheild

Does anyone sell all the p-clips for the brake lines etc fitted to the wishbones
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 38&alt=web

Copy of my link from my rebuild http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=399347
Hope this helps and goodluck

User avatar
dris
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 10:46 pm

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by dris » Fri Jan 30, 2015 7:01 pm

Hi Lee,

Looks like yours and mine were stored in the same lake.

Was chatting to a 'sandblaster' today who said that the zinc coating was a waste of time, well not entirely but paint was better.
Coating it straight after (with say por-15 clear) is what adds the protection.

Yours looks great, certainly gives inspiration whilst doing a job like this.

Thank you for the link to the clips, that's what I'm after...did you order the 10mm? Have to go and measure the brake line OD.

That's what I thought about the heat sheild...oh well :cry:

lotuslee
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2014 5:58 pm

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by lotuslee » Fri Jan 30, 2015 7:27 pm

I do prefer paint to powder coating as I'm my experience it tends to flake off and does not look good. Paint you can touch up.
My clips are 4 mm but next time would go for 5mm big one for me is replacing all bolts nut etc, but buy from a local steel stockist as nothing special about them.

User avatar
dris
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 10:46 pm

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by dris » Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:40 am

Day 9

Whilst the wishbones and other parts have been away for sandblasting i've done a bit of cleaning.

The aluminum uprights I used a wire attachment on the drill to clean off most of the brake dust/crap and then cleaned off with magic sponges and finally treated with ACF-50

Here's before

Image

After

Image

Other parts

Image

Also put some protection on the stainless (although it shouldn't rust) parts for the uprated Toe link

Image

Got the sandblasted parts back now so that's the next step

Cheers

User avatar
thommo
Posts: 4155
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 12:50 pm
Location: Lancs
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by thommo » Tue Feb 10, 2015 1:09 pm

Really good job and very clearly explained. Good pictures, too. Still no use to me sadly. I'll never get around to it even with skilled help.

Post Reply