Suspension Refresh

Topics relating to the series 1 Exige
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Benja
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by Benja » Sat Jan 17, 2015 10:54 am

Elise111S wrote:This is good Dris, I'll be doing this with mine soon. I'd like to make Anglesey too!
Just a gentle reminder there is a little under 11 weeks to Anglesey! Time slips away quickly.

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thommo
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by thommo » Sat Jan 17, 2015 11:22 am

Original Konis?
Just like mine.
Maybe it's time for me to "refresh"

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jonnyfox
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by jonnyfox » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:59 pm

Maybe Steve lol
#498

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thommo
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by thommo » Mon Jan 19, 2015 10:51 am

I did consider Benja's kit but havered for too long.

MarkPH
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by MarkPH » Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:22 pm

Nitron Track Day Pros transformed my S1 - but I did get JDS to fit them!

Dave - not seen the website before, but I do like it. Will be working up in Hull for a few days in March so may well pop in.

Cheers

Mark

seriouslylotus
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by seriouslylotus » Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:28 pm

MarkPH wrote:Nitron Track Day Pros transformed my S1 - but I did get JDS to fit them!

Dave - not seen the website before, but I do like it. Will be working up in Hull for a few days in March so may well pop in.

Cheers

Mark
Would be great to see you...
Really must get the workshop and stores finished/painted and organised then have an open day one Saturday....

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dris
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by dris » Wed Jan 21, 2015 12:50 pm

Day 3

Taking onboard the advice (cheers Dave-JDC) I decided to remove the wheel arch liner and hopefully save some skin/swearing in the meantime.
I needed to first remove the 2 bolts and 2 screws (1 screw hidden in photo) holding the fuse box assembly:

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Then the 2 bolts holding the forward side:

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...and the 3 plastic screws/washers to the rear. These where quite difficult to get out but using a flat headed screwdriver combined with a Philips type screwdriver and pliers managed to get them out

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Then I could peel back the wheel liner allowing better access to the upper wishbone bolt which I will remove later on.

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To remove the shock absorber bracket was fairly straight forward (I’m removing to clean everything) using a 13mm spanner and socket.

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Now i carried on with the hub dis-assembly...
Next was to remove the brake disc shield. First removing the 2 visible hex cap head bolts (one top one bottom)

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and then the hidden bolt, which just needed to be loosened before the shield could be worked loose in the direction towards the front of the car.

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The 4 bolts holding the plinth to the aluminum upright where loosened but the 2 at the forward end couldn’t be removed.

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With the top and bottom wishbone joint nuts now loose I used the ball joint splitter to pop the top joint out.

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....and then slide out the hub/upright (removing the tie rod end nut beforehand) leaving the plinth to be removed by using the ball joint splitter

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Then with the 8mm hex Allen socket removed the steering arm from the hub (this could have been done much earlier)
Here you can see the 3 camber shims.

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Now back to that drop link (cheers again Dave-JDC)
Using a 19mm spanner on the flat part of the drop link and a 17mm spanner I was able to release the nut without the need to cut or use a nut buster.

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The wishbones are the last to be removed but for now I was done.

Day 4

Removal of the front top wishbone joint was relatively straight forward with 17mm spanner and socket

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To remove the upper rear bolt proved quite tricky as with the steering on full right lock I still wasn’t able to get the bolt out without fear of damaging the cover.
First I loosened off the joint using 2 x 17mm spanners as getting a socket on the forward end proved impossible (the support for the damper bracket being in the way)
Then I decided to cut the tie clip (I can replace a tie clip but would be annoyed to damage the boot)
.....and push it back for enough space to get the bolt out using an Allen key to push the bolt out.

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For the bottom front wishbone joint i used a 17mm spanner through the gap where the anti-roll bar goes (I since removed the front under tray which may have made it easier to access) and a 17mm socket on the aft side

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Now for the last joint which involves removing first the passenger foot rest (mine was just Velcro in place) to access the head of the bolt.

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and a 17mm spanner at the other end. I tie clipped the spanner to the wishbone to stop it falling off (sorry no photo)

With the bolts out I worked loose the upper wishbone and was ready to catch the small camber washers.

There’s a gap in the chassis where a screw driver could be used to help work the front joint loose.

This is the upper wishbone with the washers, the 3 large washers (all stuck together) are on the forward joint are all on the aft side with the stubber washer.

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a view of the condition of the bushes

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And the lower wishbone

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So that’s on corner off the car.....all the parts went into one box so I don’t mix them up.
I’ve colour tie clipped the parts that will go for sandblasting so they don’t get mixed up with the offside parts (not sure if the tie will survive the process though)

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I struggled earlier to get the front under tray off but finally after finishing the wishbones managed to do it.
This will give easier access to the anti-roll bar support brackets.

Here shows the screws loosened off, 3 at the back, 2 either side and 5 along the front.
The tray needed pushing forward then back to be lowered.

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Before starting yesterday (day 4) I discovered a really good guide here: http://www.tadts.com/instructions/suspe ... 00018.html
I will edit my first post to include this link so this helps anyone in future.

Now I will do the off side now (hopefully quicker)

Edit: Link to clearer photos
Last edited by dris on Wed Jan 21, 2015 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Muu
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by Muu » Wed Jan 21, 2015 2:25 pm

nice work

is that panel on the wrong way around, thought the holes projected inwards

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dris
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by dris » Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:34 pm

Muu wrote:nice work

is that panel on the wrong way around, thought the holes projected inwards
I'll have a look later, i cant really remember the holes pointing in a particular direction.

Si_F
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Re: Suspension Refresh

Post by Si_F » Wed Jan 21, 2015 4:42 pm

Do consider the epoxy mastic,as suggested. Personally, I preffer it to Por as its just less faffy to use.

You might want to consider that ARB, you'll have some lovely shiney wishbones then a rusty arb.

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