Rear Toe links, which are the strongest ones??

Exactly what I�ve initially thought. That�s why I tried to think of alternatives ways why this could have happened.
Anyway, I�ve gone to my garage and examined the thing in more detail�
I have the kit from TADTS, the links are NOT steel (I used a magnet) and the diameter is 18mm.
[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC04295.jpg[/image]

Exactly what I�ve initially thought. That�s why I tried to think of alternatives ways why this could have happened.
Anyway, I�ve gone to my garage and examined the thing in more detail�
I have the kit from TADTS, the links are NOT steel (I used a magnet) and the diameter is 18mm.

They are probably stainless steel, some types are non magnetic.

Bernard

Bernard,
I think you are correct , as the bar is too heavy for aluminium.

Sean is also correct and should NOT restraighten the parts, as they have already bent the material structure has changed so bending back will weaken the parts further.

I only suggested doing this if you sleeved it also. Given the load paths and the right diameter tube it could actually be alot stronger than the original for very little investment in either time or money.

Sean is also correct and should NOT restraighten the parts, as they have already bent the material structure has changed so bending back will weaken the parts further.

I only suggested doing this if you sleeved it also. Given the load paths and the right diameter tube it could actually be alot stronger than the original for very little investment in either time or money.

Steve

r u on drugs ?

I don’t believe a man of your kaleeber would really consider doing this… i’m sure yu kknow that once its been bent it will have been stressed beyond its elastic limit and the next time it would probably sheer catastrophically… and exiges don’t like 4-wheel steering like those old Honda thingys used to do

Steady on I’ve only had a beer!

I’ve seen several trackrods on 4x4s sleeved as a temporary repair, only to find that the temporary repair outlasts eveyone else’s standard item!

Maybe I’m not making myself clear, but the sleeving is done with a length of tube whose internal diameter matches the external diameter of the toelink. At each end of the tube (which could have a wall thickness of 3mm to 4mm) it is welded fully around the circumference.

There is absolutely no chance of it shearing along the sleeved length.

It you don’t like the idea of taking a bend toelink - then imagine doing it to a perfectly good straight one - it would certainly be the quick and easiest way to beef the bar up and stop it bending in future.

They are solid steel 17 mm diameter.
Bernard

I wonder why it is not made of steel tube.
I think (rough calculation) a 18/19mm OD 8/9mm ID tube could be as strong and sensibly lighter (this is half unsuspended mass, after all).

opinions?

They are solid steel 17 mm diameter.
Bernard

I wonder why it is not made of steel tube.
I think (rough calculation) a 18/19mm OD 8/9mm ID tube could be as strong and sensibly lighter (this is half unsuspended mass, after all).

opinions?

Because you can’t readily buy tube of that diameter with sufficient wall thickness ? It would be expensive to drill out such a long length (about 300 mm)

Bernard

I don’t know why it bent, but it has, and no I DEFINITELY know it has not been jacked up, towed or tied or anything via the toe link rod. Maybe its simply a duff one, who knows.

Scuffers doesn’t use the pilbeam kit, he developed the uprights on his car with Eliseparts. He may use Pilbeam rear toe links (although I doubt it as he probably made his own ones of those as well), but I know he doesn’t use the pilbeam hubs and stuff as he developed his own.

Scuffers does use the Pilbeam wishbones, it’s one of the reasons he couldn’t run in 750MC events a few years ago.

Uprights he currently uses are a new design. Prior to that he used the standard alloy units IIRC.

Pilbean uprights are also only a fairly recent addition (last 2years IIRC)

MM was good fun thanks Ian Jochan Mass in a 300 SLR on a street wide enough for 2.5 cars at full chat overtaking into oncoming traffic … and grinning -

The Pilbeam solution is to have the inboard mount on the wishbone tube ( I have a picture somewhere ) so the load is transmitted through the tube into the wishbone mount - not to the end of an M10 bolt in space - means the link is relative short as well …