That somehow feels like an understatement eh 
Not at this ride height it wont make hardly any difference, i wound the coilovers to there maximum height as I wasnt sure how deep the wheels would fall into the brake roller for the MOT, its set at about 150/160 at the moment, I will lower it down to about 100/120 for the road and 70/90 on the track(thats when it should actually make a difference.
Fitted my completed side skirt today, when the car is at track height it should hopefully make a difference as the bottom of the end fence will be 44mm from the floor
Also a few people have mentioned to me that they think the front splitter wont make it to 50mph never mind 150mph so i decided to stand on the edge to see what happened, bear in mind im 110kg and all the weight is being distributed through 2 feet compared to the downforce which will be more distributed across the surface of it, i would have done this before but never had my mate to take the pics with me at the time
Sorry the quality isnt good, he text them over to me just
Hands out to show im not holding onto anything
The car is still on ramps one side as i was doing the skirt so thats why it looks one side of the splitter is higher than the other
Just to show theres nothing underneath, you can see one of my 3 skid plates I made so they will rub getting out of my drive, under braking on track rather than risking damaging the splitter
Had a bit of time today so decided to make a shift spacer to get the gearknob closer to the steering wheel
Started with a length of carbon tube
And some spare 5mm aluminum
Mark out the 3 holes that hold the shifter into the floor
Drill, attack with angle grinder and bolt together
You can see how much closer it is here, currently 100mm higher, I will eventually raise that to 175mm when I remove the handbrake as it will also get the gearknob completely clear of my knees
Fitted my vxr 470cc injectors tonight, great as they were identical fitment as the stock ones, so swapping them over was pretty easy.
The spacing is about 10mm out from number 1 to number 4 which is a shame as its a nice rail.
I might be able to swap also the fuel pressure regulator from the metal vxr rail into the factory rail as they look like it will fit, just need to get a star fitting to removing the one from the vxr one.
Already got the car running aswell, did some tweaks and idles ok, though its booked in for mapping on the 30th so we can get it running properly
Made use of the spare green paint I had and decided while I was motivated to sort out my manky manifold.
Ive got a green theme going on so I think I will get green harnesses, and maybe paint the brake calipers
just going to let it dry over night then laquer it tomorrow and stick it back on
One for Steve and Shrek too! 
Plod is going to have something to say when he sees your front splitter 
… still, at least you can use the rear wing to stand out of the rain while you debate it with him… 
Only kidding…
he can complain all he wants, its got IVA approved splitter edging so he can sit under my rear wing and cry
Been wanting to trim my wing end plates for a while, just needed to do a little more research into end plate design, the actual area under the wing that most of the low pressure is created and also what I think looks ok.
After much reading, drawing versions in mspaint and drawing on the actual endplates i came up with these.
They keep the 400mm under the wing that I wanted
Masking tape and pen
Attack with angle grinder, first one cut out
Second one cut out
Inlet manifold put back on
Also pulled off the wing pylons, will be remaking them as I mentioned before, but while I come up with the final design painted them black
‘he can complain all he wants, its got IVA approved splitter edging so he can sit under my rear wing and cry’
I hate to be the bringer of bad news, but there’s a lot more to some edging trim on the splitter that is going to be needed to make him happy. All the bolts, nuts and stay bars should have a 1D radius on them, all panels needs a 1D radius all around and be of a minimum thickness, no threads exposed and not catch on IVA man’s special 100mm fluffy ball. This includes every part that a pedestrian can touch, both reasonably and unreasonably. Get the wrong guy, who is into cars, has eaten the IVA/SVA book or knows the Construction and Use regs, and he would spoil your whole day.
And that’s before he notices the number plates.
The trick about driving slightly mental/questionably legal cars on the road is to not draw attention to yourself. To me your aero is an excuse to stop you, then the more you look you the more you can find.
whats wrong with the number plates, they are the legal size, and I asked the MOT guy about where the front one is allowed to be placed as his car has a stick on one to and he said where I put it. Or are you talking about the rear plate because of the carbon tie bars?
Front plate, at a guess no BS mark, wrong angle - needs to be within a certain number of degrees from vertical, much less then you have it - not flat, as its attached to the curved clamshell surface.
Rear plate, need to be able to see it from defined angle from the sides, which your wing uprights stop you from doing, tie bars crossing in front of it.
Seriously, there are lots of things that would get you pulled over. If you are taking advise from an MOT tester that says its fine as his is the same, that’s not good advise. Have you ever seen car supplied by a manufacturer with a stick on plate like yours? Look at a late Alfa with the large badge in the middle, and the plate to one side. If a stick on one was OK, do you think they would have gone to the agro/expense/asthetic disaster that putting one to one side brings?
Ask Sean B all you need to know about driving while bringing attention to yourself !!
Haha … sorry Sean , but passing you in that layby on the A55 whilst you were being 'spoken to ’ is an image I’ll never forget 
made a start on fitting my rear brakes today, had to remove some of the material from the hub to allow the bolts holding the caliper bracket on to be removed, without it every time i moved from handbrake to 2 pot calipers i would have to press the hub out and replace the wheel bearings, then bolted on the new caliper brackets
put the 308mm discs and 2 pots on
another rear shot, painted the wing pylons
Please tell me you’re not leaving the toe links like that?
Aren’t the calipers on the wrong sides? bleed valve should be up top
Nope, I need to get a double shear bracket, im going to pop up to phoenix to get a pair before it hits the track
They arnt fitted at the moment, i was just trial fitting them to check the spacers work correctly and bolts are the right length.
I need to order 2 sets of pads this week as the used front calipers will be going on the back and the brand new blue ones will be going on the front.
fair enough Lee, coming along
I think number plates are the least of your problems!
Lol…
ok mini-update, all brakes are now on, new pads all around, loads of copper grease, bled all the air out of the system, under light load coming to junctions they squeal there brains out, but im guessing its because they need bedding in, just running pagid road pads for the moment as I have no plans on being last of the late brakers on the road, I have my PF01 for track use.
Painted the old red calipers a bright shade of blue and put them on the back to match my brand new calipers i put on the front
Fitted ready to bed in
I will put a bias valve on, will be having a leaver style version so its easier to mess with on track, going to get someone who can cut and fair brake line to do that though as its something I dont want to potentially bodge myself.
Also took my sump off so that I could fit the baffle plate system, scared myself silly reading all the threads of people killing engines, spoke to elise spares where I bought it from and they said never to weld it, none of there race cars have welded them and never had a failure from it, so decided to go that way.
With the expected lateral g force its something I will definately need, how much g I can pull before it stops working im not sure currently, dont really know at what point moving over to a dry sump is required.
Forgot to take a picture with the baffles in, ive got a magnetic sump plug which had a bit of very fine metal on which i cleaned off, shows its doing something.
Then because the weather was nice today took the car up the cat and fiddle pass up to the pub for a drink, was good fun and gave me chance to a bit of low speed mapping on the way.
A few people asked me about the car and I let a few of the children who came to have a look sit in the car aswell, they seem to enjoy it.