just been looking a bit more at guglielmi times at donnington from 2007/2008 and also found pics of what it looked like at the time.
400-450bhp, 750kg, minimal aero
running 1.15s
Now the winner last year in club class was running 1.17s so will be interesting what tyre technology, being lighter and more aero will do compared to big loss over power guglielmi’s car which randy should give me a good benchmark.
Don’t forget that comparisons are difficult as the circuit went from 1.96m to 1.979m in 2011 (I think) when Goddards moved.
I remembered that the went I was talking of was the precursor to Time Attack and was called TunerGP and was in 2005!!
Quo’s car was an early SC Honda and at the time (from memory) had 300 bhp, stock brakes, no special aero, single way Nitrons and shagged 48’s. It came second with a 1:17:21. Here’s the results:
Im guessing it was an s1 so probably weighed about 750kg? Thats great as I now have a comparison. Basically ill have the same power and if I or randy cant go quicker we know the aero wasnt worth the fitting. But it is a little muddled as as I run wider rubber and I would think zzr/v70 are quicker tyres aswell.
In an ideal world I want the car to be able to run 1.13s in a pros hands
Yes S1.
Last time LOT ran at Donny Natuonal in 2011 the Fenns MS Elise was setting the pace with 1:16.7,…you’re aiming for 4s on that,…that’s pretty punchy!!
Ill try and get to the Donny round to cheer you on.
I really wouldnt read anything into old timing sheets, far too many variables to consider, time, temp, position of the moon etc. Hell,I can pull out the time sheets from CC 2007 where i out qualied all but 5 of the class B+C boys in a lowly old class A car!
The competition and conditions on the day is what really counts! First things first though GET It FiNiSHED! Talk about and adjust things all daylong then!
yeah not limit of things to tweek once it’s done, look forward to seeing it on track
Sage words from Gav, baseline where you’re at and set targets when it’s running and you know where you’re at relative to the competition. It’s all just a bit of fun at the end of the day…
Gav was that when it was you and Donnelly hammering around in Class A at Donny…that was an awesome race!
wishbones all done, ball joints and Eliseshop spherical bearings fitted, getting there (y)
Upright bolts blasted and zinc’d
The problem with running my car so low is that you have roll centre problems, ie its to far away from the centre of gravity meaning you have much more leverage effect for roll, by reducing that you need to run less spring or anti roll bar.
Now the simplest solution is to buy Eliseparts GT race uprights, but they cost around £2000 plus needing alot of other stuff to go with it meaning you will end up spending about £4000 to achieve them.
If it was a pure race car with an unlimited budget but that not being the case I sat and thought about another solution.
After working it all out I put it into my geometry software to compare bump, droop and roll and its all looking good
running a 90mm rear ride height, this is what my standard geometry looks like when stationary without any modifications, as you can see the roll centre is pretty close to the ground.
And with the simple modifications you can see the big improvements, if you look at the info at the bottom you all should be able to work out what ive done.
Also got my new fuel tank yesterday.
Its a half width tank with foam core to help with surge. holds 19 litres plus the connecting pipes which is another 2 litres, it weighs 3.9kg with the connecting pipes, so a nice 6.6kg weight saving plus the fuel weight saved and less sloshing of fuel from side to side in the corners cant hurt in fast corner transitions
ive done some maths to see how much fuel i need to carry and come up with this calculation.
at 300bhp you need a peak flow of around 2000cc per minute, now you would assume that if you were accelerating constantly for that minute(repeating 40-140mph) you would average about 1800cc, if you are full throttle for 70% of the lap that means your using 1260cc per minute and an average lap in the uk should take 90secs, so 1890cc per lap, i should be able to run the tank as low as 4litres, giving me 17litres of fuel, or 9 laps of fuel, since time attack sessions are 10mins long that seems about right. if anyone can see something wrong with them calcs please let me know
Its a tank I can run for a while until i save up for a pro alloy tank as ive got to spend quite a bit of money on other things so this will cover me for a while
Also got my brake discs arriving tomorrow, 308mm front and rear, using a bias valve and maybe a compound change to control the front/rear bias
And ive ordered 2.25" race springs now.
Faulkner 900lbs 6" fronts and 1150lbs 6"
[quote=“turbotoaster”]
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That’s a Fcuking big tea pot!, but where is the handle?. 
Coming along well. Impressed with thought and effort you’re putting in to this.
I’m enjoying reading this too. Hope it comes together as intended
Thanks guys, its getting there slowly
One thing that is letting the car down is brakes…but no more!!
My new discs arrived today from Kev aka SEN Lotus, just like many others on this forum, I cant praise the guy enough, such a nice straight talking bloke who helped me out massively and saved me alot of money aswell.
If you need anything making, whether your looking for an audi conversion, or like me your after one off bits hes the man to go to, call him on 07415 101868
So as usual pictures are taken in my kitchen next to my high quality £5 tesco toaster.
Here are the aluminum bells, lovely engraving telling you who they are from and what car they are going on, they are a 190.5mm PCD and weigh 777g each
One thing I like about them is all the edges have a radius on them so no sharp edges or potential stress points, more work involved but shows thought has gone into them.
Front face
Back face
Ok next onto the discs, now its traditional for the lotus community to buy AP discs, either because its what has been done or because thats what the 2 main sellers offer, these are different, Its always concerning going into the unknown but after kev doing some testing on track with them and I know another race car driver using these discs I was happy to give them a go.
These are a 308 x 25mm disc which I will be running front and rear.
Now I do love comparing so I went over the discs and took all the relevant measurements, ive then compared them to the closest AP disc that I could find.
The inner thickness of the disc is 8.3mm
The outer thickness of the disc is 7.6mm
Leaving an air gap of 9.1mm
Recommended minimum overall thickness when they are due to be changed is 22mm
They have a pad swept area of 49mm which is near enough perfect for the factory 2pots
the weight for each disc is 5kg
So as a comparison the closest disc I could find is cp4348-528 which is a 304mm disc,
that has a outer thickness of 6.6mm
An air gap of 9mm
PCD of 177.8mm
weight of each disc is 5.36kg
The weight makes sense due to the difference in PCD, and in theory if there were of comparable quality steel(which since they are massive brake casting manufacturer they should be) then you have a bit more thickness on the SEN discs which hopefully would give a good wear and heat absorption rate.
here is a picture bolted together
Just waiting on my springs and also bought a nytralon bushes to help with gear changes.
alcon version is 304mm too, but with a 14.9mm air gap and 4.3KG and 48 directional vanes
are probably double the money though
if money was no object i would be running the ap 304mm that weigh 3.7kg per disc, but the difference in price between this kit and others is triple the price, which I just cant afford at the moment as much as I would like to save weight, i will still save some getting rid of my heavy brembos though
New springs arrived, 900lb/in fronts and 1150lb/in rears, or if your a jap fan 16.1kg/mm and 20.6kg/mm…definitely not for street use!!
Also shot blasted the uprights, usual corrosion…maybe something ill look at the future for paint
So we are finally into assembly mode!!
Dan sent me this picture over yesterday showing the front end is starting to go together.
Should be rusty free for a good while now!
Also my roll centre adjusters are being made this week, thats one final thing that is ticked off the list, least now I will be able to run the car fairly low to get the ground effects working, chatting to one of the guys who races in the lotus cup they gained on average a 1sec lap by dropping from 90mm height to 60mm so thats a good bit of info.
I will be trying 70/90, which if you take out the increase tyre diameter and roll adjusters would be 95/112 so it should be ok from a roll centre point of view.
Once its all assembled, ive done a couple of trackdays ill look at how the driveshafts are doing, as then I want to lower my engine/gearbox another 25mm to get the centre of gravity closer to the roll centre to reduce pivot leverage.
Also got my 2 pieces of 2m carbon fibre to make up my sill extensions, they will be as wide as I can make them to maximise surface area but not that wide that I cant get out of the vehicle without stepping on them, the attachment points will be a combination of the foot and jamies as you both that come up with similar solutions to what I was thinking.
Just need to get it back, then on the dyno for a low boost map and ill be on track :cool
rear suspension fitted
One thing we come across when trying to take the brembo caliper brackets off was that you cannot get the bolts out with them hitting the hub, so basically everytime you want to change the bracket you have to push out the hub which wrecks the wheelbearing, which i dont really want to replacing every single year. So what im going to do if cut a circle out of the hub to allow for the bolts to be removed, I will of course cut out another the opposite side so that its balanced, thats a job for when I get home and bolt it in the pedestal drill
thats the rear done, the brake calipers havent been refurbished as they are only staying on for the MOT then moving over to 2 pots which I will refurbish to match the 2 brand new ones I have.
Will also need to get the ali double shear brackets from phoenix and also the brackets for the subframe before any spirited driving.
Gearbox is in, and also EP flywheel so thats another 3.5kg saved, needed to replace the clutch bearing as it was a bit mullered.
look at all the wiring and pipes everywhere, I really need to see if there is a way of simplifying all of it
tested the disc for fitment, couple of tweaks and they will be good to go!
pulled the pilbeam ARB and drop links off to refurb, the drop links have really seen better days so they will be replaced
After this its the rollbar stays and final fitment of the chargecooler and then ill be back to aero tweaking
cant help feeling the bells should be hard anodised …
they will be, but since this is the first set of s1 bells made we needed to make sure everything fits the way it should before doing that, you wouldnt want to pay for it then realise they need machining.
Who’s uprights are those? Presumably with the hub centre moved up to allow the low ride height. Also the rose jointed track rods ends, who’s are those? Thanks