IACV Question...

I’d thought about the possibility of an air leak, because I have seen exactly that situation when a hose slipped off the IACV, it also gives a shedload more symptoms, especially when the throttle is opened with leaning off and engine stalling. Also when the engine went past idle, it would be virtually impossible to get it to fall back as it would operate on a different part of the map.

Dave

Dave. I have checked all the airways into the TB and all sem fine. Both pipes are well secured to the IACV too!

If I get a new one, is it just a ‘plug and play’ or will it need to be set up from scratch with the Emerald?
Cheers,

Pete.

I have not been on this site for ages, but:

Many moons ago I got similar symptoms to yours - mine was IACV was not bolted to the engine and was swinging around on the hoses and there was muck in the valve – repair was -clean the valve out and then bolt it in place.

Oh yes and:
Repair takes 20 mins - but the visit to the hospital for the burns you will get off the exhaust will take hours.

The moral of this storey, is don’t start the repair until the exhaust has cooled down.

Yep but that requires patience…

UPDATE!!!

Took the IACV off today and gave it a very good clean. Yes quite dirty and noted that the rotating ‘valve’ was nearly completly closed.

When I started the engine again, I got a lovely slow idle at 1000 ish RPM. Sorted I thought as it all warmed up nicely keeping the idle the same.

Then noticed that i had forgotton to plug the valve electrics in, so did that. Nothing much changed with the warm engine.

HOWEVER…

Just started it up again after 5 hours to cool down, and this time with all connected. Idle right up at 2000 RPM!

Bollocks!

So it seems as if the IACV is the snag?

Given that all ran OK with it not connected, I am quite tempted to leave off with it closed and cope with a low and lumpy idle with it cold.

Is this ok? or am I going to stuff up the Air/Fuel ratio and poss cause the engine damage?

Any more thoughts please?

Pete.

That just confirms that the mapped position for the IACV when cold is too high and needs some adjustment.

10 minutes with the cold car and the software would see this fixed.

If you unplug the IACV, this will have no affect when the engine is hot, when it is cold the ECU will think the IACV is deployed and will add the appropriate fuel for the extra airflow, this will make it run richer than it should around idle when the engine is cold, when hot there will be no problems.

Dave

Many thanks for the reply Dave!

I will unplug it until I can get the map sorted.

I should be able to do this myself… But do you have any thoughts about how much to change the IACV settings page from the numbers already obtained as above?

Until then, this will be fine as I don’t plan on using the car in cold weather… yesterday it did start fine and just needed a crack of throttle to warm up slowly and smoothly.

Just a bit baffled why the IACV settings are not working now… the only poss explanation is that when I replaced all the TB vacuum pipes, one was totaly split at the back, out of view. I suspect that this was the case when Dave Walker mapped the car.

Cheers,

Pete.