My cooler is not a double pass one but it is the biggest of its type. They can easily be cleaned, the core just pulls out and can be flushed and ultrasonic cleaned. Air to oil cooler should IMHO be thrown away after a blow up. You just can’t get all the bits out of them.
Oil temps I haven’t logged yet because I’ve been using channels for other stuff but based on other cars with similar setup they should be 120C.
I plumbed in the original front cooler with new hoses - its possible but took me a complete day to get the hoses through the sill and that was using the old ones to pull them through with. One was “skifaflexed” to the damn body work So it would be a lot cheaper to add something for sure.
The only issue I have is it takes a bit longer than I would like to get pressure when its been sat for a week or so on start up.
Basically yes, I cut the ends off and taped them up to stop the oil flowing out and just pulled hard - dont be suprised if they dont move easy, just be patient.
I had to remove the drivers side “trinket tray” to get at the hose as it turns the corner into the sill as it got stuck on an air con pipe as well
The standard rubber hoses to weigh a fair bit, the pro gold PTFE stuff is a heck of a lot lighter.
My Exige is still the heaviest Randy has had on his scales though
Makes me wonder as I have no oil cooler fitted on either of my Elises, Honda N/A and Honda S/C, but have never had any problems with the engines at all.
They live on the track and fast road runs, up here in Scotland, Stelvios, French Frolics, the Ring etc, and have done 70,000miles and 40,000miles on the Honda engines.
Is there likely to be a difference between the Elise and Exige in this respect?
Actually Dave, I have JDM engines, and they do have a form of oil cooler around the filter housing, but I doubt that it is as effective as the radiator type.
However I regularly stay out on the track for 40 min sessions, the Dijon straight is 150mph in N3 TUT, and N1 has been going strong for four years now.
Plenty of other things have broken of course, mainly drive shafts, CV joints, one clutch, but never an engine problem, despite missing gears in both cars at KH and changing from 3rd to 2nd instead of 4th at over 8,000rpm.
Even with a burst radiator on track and not seeing the temp reading rise because of the low sun, it went upto some silly temperature and the engine actually cut out, maybe a function of the Kpro ECU, but I let it cool down, sealed the leak with metalset, filled up with many litres of water, and went back out again.