When you say ‘wrong flywheel pattern’, what should it look like? Does anyone know what the Exige one looks like? I have a picture of a flywheel which I think you sent. Tdc is marked then, two teeth and a space so, 13 and 16 missing, then 31 and 35. I will try and check this against mine. I will u2u with my email address and send a picture of my flywheel. A lighter one which I think you have too, seeing on another subject.
I have a spare engine (120bhp) in the garage, may connect up and spin and see if the Exige likes that one. Exige would have plugs out and just looking for a spark.
By the way, am after a new connector to the wheel sensor to speedo, anyone?
Cheers.
There is no specific VHPD pattern as far as I know. I posted earlier in this thread a picture of a flywheel that should be right:
Remove the starter motor and the cover on the opposite side of the starter and you should be able to check the notches in your flywheel while turning the engine by hand.
Got a spark with a map loaded. Touched nothing in the program in regards to the flywheel.
Remember, I paid Blue Streak in Notts to check and they repaired the E.F.i unit. I just need to see if it starts then I will have an idea if the original ecu is still at fault or not.
Now the fun part! looking at the program then driving it.
that’s good news. But it still could be that a non-standard flywheel has been installed on your engine. As the Emerald came with your car the non-standard pattern might have been configured. Please check within the Emerald software what is configured for the crank position. Looks like there are three different Rover patterns around.
I still find it hard to believe that a specialist company is not able to repair your ECU. Best would be to count the notches on your flywheel and the position of the missing teeth with respect to TDC. If it is non-standard the Lotus ECU will not work but the Enmerald could still handle it.
I found an illustration of the three Rover flywheel types in the DTA user manual (see below).
It would be helpful if someone with access to a VHPD engine/flywheel could check which one is the right one. My guess would be the middle one but not 100% sure.
In brief, I ran two cables to the crank sensor, direct and away from the existing wiring loom, and connected them to the Emerald K3. Up and running! Oh, that sound!!
I will at some point try the E.F. i unit to see if indeed this now works.
To all that helped, a big thank you.
Also, I must say, Emerald are extremely reactive and helpful. We all like good product support and they do this very well.
Fitted the Emerald, plugs were out of the head but cables connected to them, and the bottoms of the plugs earthed. Turned the key, and saw the Christmas lights! However, I put the plugs in the head, connected the cables and no start up.
I left the plugs in but connected 4 more and earth them as before so, plugs in and plugs on top of engine- no spark. You see, engine under compression whilst cranking and something is either disrupting the crank sensor signal as it is in one loom. Bad idea.
This gave me the idea to run the two cores (2 cables) from the sensor to the Emerald terminals. And yes, worked. Remember, I used a multi meter to test and all was fine. I am still thinking, maybe a good idea to put a new wiring loom bulkhead connector on as it is 18 yrs old. New loom at the front but not on engine.
Yes, never give up and maybe think a bit more but, normally if a cable bells through with the multi meter, you expect it to always do so. Could be the case in fact but the crank signal is being lost or distorted so th ECU doesn’t respond.
I have never driven this car ever so, yes going to be a big moment after having rebuild it completely.
While chasing my drivability issues I checked the crank sensor on my car wiring too. Maybe it is of use for others so I share what I’ve found.
The crank sensor signal is very improtant but also very sensible as it is a low voltage signal (only caused by inductive effects) and changes with up to 5 kHz. Lotus uses a twisted pair cable but that’s not enough signal protection. Better to use a high quality shielded cable and earth the shielding at one (!) end to the ground (preferable to sensor earth at the ECU side but engine ground will work too). Run the cable separately from the rest of the wiring. In the original loom it runs parallel to the injection and spark driving cables which cause a lot of noise input into that wiring. I routed a new cable via the fuel filler side from the sensor to the ECU to get a clean crank signal.
I’ve found older reports on this forum about the ECU speedo sensor not working properly which causes the 5500 rpm rev limit to cut in. The speedo sensor works with the same principle and is prone to signal disturbance as well. A shielded cable to this sensor has been reported to solve issues there too.
Hi Gents- been a while - 2 years ? and i can see this January - May i suggest looking at the low tension circuit in the boot . there is a little black connector on the left of the engine that feeds the Coil . I have had one instnace where it worked itself loose … the engine cut, all else seemed good… found the wire clip on the connector had broken , push it down hard and secured it temp with zip tie … and instant ignition… that was 4 years ago - blush - must fix that properly HAG w/e
