Hi Roy
About half way down the page for the flywheel. I believe it’s original but I’m not 100%. Either way it stayed on with the rebuild as it’s condition was very good indeed.
Hi Roy,
at least you’ve found the reason why your engine doesn’t start. The ECU expects a specific trigger pattern and if your flywheel delivers a different one the ECU is just not able to determine the crank position. Unfortunately you need to pull the gearbox/engine and get a matching flywheel.
Concerning the Esprit V8 software you are right that it is somehow tricky to get it working. I’ve got version 2.0.11, built on 12.06.2011 11:51, size 229 kB within the zip-file.
Do you see the ELM version on the top of the ‘OBD Data’ tab or does it just state ‘unknown’?
Cheers, Klaus
Jonnyfox, I should of said,
My flywheel looks very much like your’s.
Klaus,
Yes, software says unknown.
Roy, If it says ‘unknown’ then the software is not able to communicate with the OBD connector device via the COM port.
Plug in the cable into your laptop, check which COM port is used by opening the Windows ‘Device Manager → COM & LPT’ and configure that one in the configuration of the V8 software.
You may also have a look at this post where I suspected that the gap between the cranking sensor and the flywheel may be too big on occasions.
Since the problem did not occur again it is still unclear if the bent crank sensor did help.
Klaus
Pretty fed up with the software to be honest.
I have two cables, one really looks like an original and is version 1.4b- this works on a different software package. (Both cables work, other is a 1.5). However, on this package I have, has come up with a error when cranking, after seemingly to communicate with my ecu, comes up with odb error now. I go into settings and fact is has a ecu connection which is SAE J1950, mine is a
SAE J 1962.
The bottom end was built by Dave Andrews, and was balanced by him at Vibration Free, certainly not coming off.
This has delayed me somewhat, got my Elise already for painting in the UK but, always like to finish a job…
Sorry but I did not understand that. With ‘this package’ do you mean the V8 software you have downloaded? Can you try to explain it more detailed.
Could be that the voltage drop during cranking leads to a connection loss.
Sorry Klaus,
The ‘Package’, I mean another program but a generic program. I have no connection at all with the Esprit software.
Roy
As you are able to read faults and see the RPM speed with your working software you don’t need the Esprit V8 software to solve the problem.
Did you try to use a different or new cranking sensor?
Yes, I saw one error, P1106- text: no TDC. I get a message on rpm: No Response.
As I say, the cable seems to have a problem talking though. This package I have, software only has the SAEJ1950 ref, which it auto selects for my ecu connection, whereas the Exige is a SAEJ1962. I don know what the difference is at present.
I was surprised to see your crank sensor, but I may have to try one like this. By the way, I have used a known working crank sensor off my Elise plus, two spare sensors (not new).
Off topic
[All good fun but, when I worked for Siemens, their software drove me crazy most days. The Siemens stuff used to crash, then wouldn’t let you back in for 1/2 hr as it said someone else had it open, which was not true.]
Roy, there is some confusion in your description:
SAE J 1962 >>> this is the type of the connector used to connect the OBD scanner. So this is a piece of hardware which is not selectable by software.
SAE J 1950 >>> is probably a typo. Do you mean SAE J1850?
SAE J 1850 >>> is one of the valid OBD2 protocols, but not the one used by the Exige S1
The Exige EFI ECU uses the ISO9141-2 protocol. So unless this protocol is choosen by the scanner software you won’t get a connection.
Hi Klaus,
On the Exige ecu info on Engine Control Unit - TechWiki, it states the connection. On the softeware I used yesterday, ‘EOBD-Facile by Outils’, it has yes SAEJ1850. Now, I have selected ISO9141 and in fact, the software does the same as before.
Moving on. I would like to get the Esprit software working but lost on options. Right cable, software just doesn’t work.
Error message I get when I press for fan to come on is: 'Unable to Open Port 2. Error 8002. Of course ELM version says:Unknown. So, not connected despite having a good cable now. Bearing in mind, both of my cables connect with other software.
Thanks for you help Klaus. I will mess about with a flywheel probe. Would have been too easy to access with my laptop and have it running.
To think I have completely stripped this car and refurbished it including rebuilding the engineand completely overhauling the gearbox. All wiring checked, new loom one could hope that engine would now work. One standard sensor! can’t quite believe it.
Cheers again, especially for the ISO number.
Roy
The Tech Wiki page clearly specifies IS0 9141 as the protocol used by the Exige S1 ECU.
So when you choose this protocol and there is still no connection the problem is somewhere else. You don’t need to try other protocols.
As said above you really need to check the COM port configuration in the Windows ‘Device manager’ and in the configuration of the Esprit V8 software.
The software tries to open COM2 but it fails. As long as you see the ‘unknown’ ELM version it won’t work for sure as the laptop is not able to communicate with your OBD cable.
Why don’t you use this software? It offers all you need and the Esprit software won’t give you more information than this.
Hi Klaus,
Not exactly intuitive now is it. From the Protocal on the picture above, ‘K-Line 9141’ to now identifying it as ISO 9141. K-Line meant nothing to me especially when there is a window company I know;). If one Googles it, yes, shows it as the initial standard in ODB stuff.
On my PC, seems to have no options to modify the port.
The other package I am trying has a communication error now when I crank, hence my interest in getting the Esprit software working, after all it was produced for our ECU. I don’t like things that give errors, kinda takes my confidence away from the thing.
All very frustrating. Course, you could come to sunny La Rochelle in France and sort it for me;), then off to the beach!
Anyone want to buy an Exige freshly rebuilt. Doesn’t run though! I’m off to play golf in this poor weather ( not sunny at present).
Hi Roy,
you need to configure the right COM port in the software itself. Check in the Windows Device Manager which COM port is assigned to your OBD cable when plugged into the laptop. Enter this number into the configuration dialog shown in the screenshot below. If all is right you should the the ELM version - no need to connect the cable to the car.
But as written above there is a big voltage drop while cranking. When I am running the Esprit Software on my car it looses connection too.
So even if the software is functional it won’t help you any further.
You already know that the ECU is not able to read crankshaft position.
This could be caused by either:
- faulty wiring including the earthing path
- faulty sensor. Can you post a picture of the sensor on your car? You’ve written it looks somehow different.
- wrong flywheel. The trigger pattern on the Rover K flywheel consists of 36 teeth with 4 teeth missing a different positions generating a specific pattern. You may able to feel the missing teeth through the sensor opening and slowly turn the engine.
I know it could be very frustrating to chase such problems. But with a systematic approach you should be able to solve it and get the engine running.
No need to sell the car 
Cheers, Klaus
Trigger pattern on the Rover K flywheel:
Once again, this is fascinating to someone(me) who knows nothing about such things. I am full of admiration for the folk who are so well versed in matters Exige.
And how impressed I am by the co-operation and helped offered. Well done, fellas.
Hi Thommo, thanks for the encouraging words. We are just trying to help to get the engine running again.
I’ve got another idea as you have written the car has used an Emerald before. There should be a 47K Resistor in the crank sensor circuit close to the ECU. Maybe this one is not present anymore.
Good idea Klaus,
However, I have a brand new main wiring loom, and this has the said resister in the crank sensor wiring.
The old main wiring loom still had the resistor in to.
I am unhappy with the OBD software or, maybe it is the ecu. When I crank the engine, I believe it is loosing connection.
Could this be an earth? There is a message from the software at the same time, communication problem in the ELM, This means obviously, in the ELM 327 interface. I am going to check the actual voltage seen by the ecu when I turn the key to the cranking position.
(Update: (Am only seeing 10volts! Even less, like 8.6 when I crank at ecu fuse!!), this does make me think the earth (N) has a poor connection, especially as I have a dedicated battery on the starter motor. The ecu two earths follow the injectors cable and bolts on to the head. I have just tested across this to the coil pack, 11v, then I crank, this goes down to 7v. This can’t be correct, must be a earth problem. This said earth goes through the bulk head multi pin connector. For me, my attention is on this piece now. I have just wired a temporary earth (N) direct from the main battery to the engine’s head, this supplies th ecu. Still drops. Then, took the second battery off and crank the car and see 6.5v. Will go and get a new battery. If it is this, has cost me in time.))
I have bent the crank probe end, to get it closer to the flywheel teeth, no difference.
I may take the ecu to get it tested at BlueStreak.co.uk. These people have done the tests before on the Esprit.
If the system voltage is dropping that far on cranking, try disconnecting the supply to the starter and try it again.
That will help to determine if it is a bad earth or the starter contacts that are causing the drop.
Checking the earthing connections is essential. And you can’t judge them by just measuring them without any load on them. Measuring the voltage drop applying some load like you did is the right way.
I replaced the main wiring loom on my car too. As the main earth connector in the front compartment (the one close to the battery) was awkward to reach I moved it up to the front cross chassis member. Everything was fine until I tried to start the car for the first time. The fuel pump did prime for the first few attempts but then refused to work.
It took me some time to figure out that the cause was the moved earth connection. The front chassis member seems to be glued to the rest to the chassis in a way that there is no proper loadable electrical connection established. When I moved the earthing connection back to the original location everything was fine.
Roy, when you are connecting the separate starter battery do you connect the minus jump lead to the chassis or to the engine? Better connect it to the engine to avoid that the current flows across the engine/chassis earthing strap which will increase its resistance. This will affect the other circuit too.
Thank you both for help. The two, very good problem solving methods.
I have disconnect the front battery from the starter. However, still had the volt drop.
I need to get a new battery, I am testing with potentially tired batteries- as soon as I ask them to work the voltage falls dramatically.
Yes, connected the earth to the gearbox strap.
I could have a poor earth from the starter motor to the gearbox, as I painted it but, the face is metal, i.e I did sand paper the touching parts.
Could be the starter itself. It was free moving but f the windings are damaged in anyway in terms of the insulation, shorting to earth will cause this drop in voltage.
I will buy a battery, then I come back and update. I am sure this will solve the problem with the ignition spark. The ecu is switching off so, no spark.
Big thanks guys. Feeling positive. No pun intended.
Roy