[quote=Podger]
Sphincter muscles ??? Are your eyes in your arse ??? 
[/quote]
Any ring of muscle that opens or closes a tube or a hole is called a sphincter muscle. I like to use the word where I can for comic effect.
AGU is the large port head for sure, but IIRC (been out of VAG cars for a while) it’s got the TB on the drivers side? Surely you’d want a BAM style manifold with the TB gearbox side to patch in a chargecooler? Also if you’re not going for mega power, the narrow port heads high a higher gas velocity and make more low down torque as a result.
My money would be on a BAM engine, with a hybrid turbo (jabba IHI maybe). While I can see the draw of using the stock EMS, it does need a lot of fiddling to get rid of all the extraneous sensors and you wont have the VAG stalks to change map with so will be locked to a boost setting unless you go for a external boost controller.
Surely once the turbo is spinning, the gas velocity is not such a big deal when the inlet manifold is pressurised.
You are talking about off boost torque which is a different thing. For that I have cunning plans involving antilag and a combuster.
Not talking transient response, my point was that the narrower opening of the inlet runner means the same mass has to move faster through a narrower aperture and this provides better cylinder filling at low rpm.
Now I will concede the AGU is the head to have for BIG power where you’re choking at the head. However the most powerful factory (late) 1.8Ts were a narrow port, to help the low end. AGU (and the other large port engine the AEB) was a 150bhp engine, and VAG chose to change the port for later machine.
Finally AEB & AGU manifolds are the wrong shape for a lotus swap IMO.
On an interesting side note, the K20 only opens one intake valve on the low cam for efficiency and low end torque. Other is just cracked open enough to stop fuel pooling behind it.
My engine is an AGU code, but my target is 550 bhp
surely it does provide better cylinder filling, but at higher boost pressure a greater mass per unit volume can deliver the same filling capacity in a lower velocity runner?
At the end of the day, I dont think anyone is looking for low power and ultimate MPG. My 430bhp race car drove like an NA with no lag at all and could be nicely balanced on the throttle mid corner etc. Oh and it also went like stink on the straights!!!
Don’t put down low end power as a plus since the thing that kills engines are high rpm not torque. Make as much power sooner rather than later…
Totally agree with Frank,
As I’ve always said (even mentioned it to JS yesterday) rods are far stronger in compression than they are in tension. Have a look at what the rods and bearings are having to contend with in terms of tension forces when the engine is close to the redline.
The load is significantly more than the compression stress of running lots of boost.
The best thing to do is reduce the weight of rotating mass and try to make as much power as possible low down so that you don’t need to use the revs. It also helps to not det!
I agree also, mega revers will always wear out faster.
Yea then the large port head is a winner for you.
Can’t find the thread now, but there was a post on vwvortex covering the differences between the engines. Also depends on if you’re staying stock bottom end, AGU is 9.5:1 whilst the BAM (and other K04 based engines) are lower (9:1 IIRC).
My money would be on a stock BAM lump with the wick turned right up, or a honduh lump 
yeah highest stresses on an engine are the stretch on the rods while throttle closed high rpm, no charge to dampen the piston movement.
@Sean far from knocking your setup, I’m advocating the BAM lump in yours over golf lumps.
I agree with you the BAM and AMK lumps are the best standard engines out there as long as you dont want too much power.
If you do want north of 350bhp, then rods and valves are a must, so you might as well start with a cheaper base engine and that gives you the big port head as well.
Well, once I get pricing, John is putting aside what I need.
I am looking at agu engine, 6 speed gearbox, but forged internals - probably 1.9, possibly 2.0, but am not desperate for the extra capacity if it comes at the expense of weaker liners.
Am not so fussed about doing headwork, as I am not looking for far north of 350/400. I really want a base project on which to get the antilag set up going.
Might have to ask John if syvecs can build in some extra tables for me!
Good old Iron block matey, no liners to crack.
So many options, 1.8 crank, 2 litre crank, 2.1 crank. Then all of the different sized over bores you can do.
I would say build the lump once and then just change the external bolt on stuff as you decide to up the power.
There’s a 2 litre crank?
Iron block is good to know. I hate having separate liners - it always adds complications.
Shame it will be heavy! oh well.
There is a 2 litre Crank, it’s out of the TFSI and goes straight in. You can also drop the Diesel crank straight in and get 2.1
Its not as heavy as you might think, it is a very small and compact engine. Next to a Honda, the Audi engine looks really small.
But yes on the weight front it certainly isnt a Rover ‘K’ Series, plus you have a lot of quite heavy stuff hanging off it. Although a turbo is a lot lighter than a Super charger.
Yeah before the TFSI was around a “20/20” was best built with a APK engine (2.0 crossflow 8v from the beetle)
To go above 350 bhp with a 1.8T engine, all you really need is new rods (�400) and exhaust valves (�150)
The only difference between the 1.8T and the 2.0TFSI bottom end is the bore size and stroke length. The 1.8T bore is 81mm and the stroke length 86.4mm, where the 2.0TFSI bore is 82.5mm and the stroke length 92.8mm.
To make a 1.8T in to a 2.0T all you need to do is over bore the block (�150) to 82.5mm and fit bigger pistons (�500) then replace the crank with a 92.8mm TSFI one (�400)
After that you would look at the cylinder head, starting with a big port head, then get it fully gas flowed (�400) new valve springs and retainers (�400) then you may as well get the inlet valves replaced (�150) and while you’re at it a set of cams (�500)
Along with a set of upgraded mains bolts (�100) a solid timing belt tensioner (�150) and a baffled sump (�200) you have pretty much got yourself a race engine.
It all comes down to money I guess, as to how far you go.
Then there’s always the solid lifter option if you want to rev it to 9k rpm.