Which proves that your alternator is working…
The nominal cell voltage of a lead acid battery is 2.1 volts. Nominally 12Volts, your battery should deliver 12.65 V across terminals, and it is, so the battery appears to be fully charged. Therefore it must have an output deficiency perhaps caused by sulfation - if you have left the battery discharged for a long period of time in which case the answer is a new battery and KEEP IT ON A TRICKLE CHARGER to prevent sulfation.
Could be a cranking Amps thing though Dave, so the Volt reading may be misleading
Jacqui’s celica battery failed over the winter, it went flat, I had it on charge over night, it would turn the car over like yours but would not start. quick trip to halfrauds and with a new battery it started straight away 
Battery…take it out and replace…There is no need to make yourself nuts…
I have no problem with changing the battery, but I don’t really want to go through the time/expense/knuckle-skinning to find that’s not the cause of the troubles.
When using jump leads with a revving Land Rover, surely the voltage from that would have done the trick ?
hand in pocket time
most seem to agree, new battery
What were the volts doing that?
What’s the engine these days? I’d have thought it should have started too, even after a little try.
Ian 
I don’t know what the volts were while trying to jump it from the Land Rover, but the revs were up, rather than just idling.
Engine is a std K-series.
Have you checked plug gaps?
Have you checked compressions?
A healthy engine WILL start with a very slow cranking speed…
Yes changing the battery may help ,but as its happened like this last year tells you something else is the CAUSE …
Just throwing new batteries at it will not cure the underlying cause of poor starting…
My 2p
Amperage dude, nothing to do with voltage…Amp load from the starter motor is very high…
Time to shed a little blood…
What Frank said. Voltage, OK amperage, crap, probably due to sulfation. You need a new battery.
Voltage is the POTENTIAL of the battery to do work. The rate at which power flows is the amperage but your battery does not have enough amperage to overcome the resistance of the starter motor and E-pack.
It’s like water in pipe - the Voltage equivalent is the power of the pump whereas the Amperage is the amount of water in the pipe, while Resistance is the diameter of the pipe.
Your pump is very fit but it doesn’t have much to pump!
Now, this isn’t likely to be it, it would be more random, but if you try and start a std K with the trottle depressed (or a Trottle Position Sensor, as was the case in previous issue) at 100% then it will only go into ‘spark plug cleaning mode’ and not send any fuel.
I agree on the battery front though.
Cheers, Ian
[quote=jfk]Have you checked plug gaps?
Have you checked compressions?
[/quote]
Plugs were new from Guglielmi Motorsport last year, though I haven’t checked them, what should the gaps be?
I’ll check compression tomorrow
Is there anyway of checking for this?
Just change the stupid battery…
I’m reading that Rover say 0.9 mm … that’s a big gap…
Well worth reducing to 0.7 and if it starts well with 0.7 then theres your area to concentrate on …
If the coil is becoming inefficient a smaller gap will help the starting spark …
Not Lotus related but, the Rotax 582 engine often used for small aircraft / home builts is an absolute pig to start from cold and the Rotax importer always recommends a smaller plug gap to help it start … it eradicates the problem !
Just to add … it costs Nowt to try !!
Mines running Champion RC6YCC plugs with .9mm gap. Does sound like the batteries the problem.
I think it may just the battery thats neeeds changing
Battery.
Owner 