AP brakes -- nice !

The only snag I found with these is that (given I have Motorsport panels and not Exige panels) is that the track is slightly wider, and at part-lock the tyre fouls the rear edge of the wheel arch… mucho filing-down and it’s sorted.

The pads are milimeters off the bells, so you have to watch padwear as the backing plates overlap the bell. So basically the last 2mm pad are unusable (on RS14 anyway)

If this happens it means that your spacers are slightly too big (a couple mm? )
When I got experimenting with my 295’s (Mutsnuts, not AP) I got a whole set of spacers so I could play with them and noticed the effect.
See if you can file them down, because at the end of the day what’s creating the stopping power is the contact area, so you don’t want to lose a couple mm.

7.25mm worked for me

While my Elise/Exige thing was being converted by Bernard (oh boy, and what a conversion…) Geary + Bernard were kind enough to fit some nice AP rotors + Eliseparts bells all round (standard calipers).

Bugger - when you mentioned Eliseparts bells, I was rather hoping that they would be the same as the original ones he made - so i would only have to swap the discs…but… they are a completely different bolt pattern!

The pads are milimeters off the bells, so you have to watch padwear as the backing plates overlap the bell. So basically the last 2mm pad are unusable (on RS14 anyway)

If this happens it means that your spacers are slightly too big (a couple mm? )
When I got experimenting with my 295’s (Mutsnuts, not AP) I got a whole set of spacers so I could play with them and noticed the effect.
See if you can file them down, because at the end of the day what’s creating the stopping power is the contact area, so you don’t want to lose a couple mm.

I am talking about the pad thickness… ie the last 2mm or so pad thickness. Not the contact area. If you like a normal person change pads when they get low, then you wont have a problem, but if you like to wear them down to the rivits, then you might start grinding the bell away.

Aaaahhhh, I see now!

Could you not just space them out slightly then?

The pads are milimeters off the bells, so you have to watch padwear as the backing plates overlap the bell. So basically the last 2mm pad are unusable (on RS14 anyway)

If this happens it means that your spacers are slightly too big (a couple mm? )
When I got experimenting with my 295’s (Mutsnuts, not AP) I got a whole set of spacers so I could play with them and noticed the effect.
See if you can file them down, because at the end of the day what’s creating the stopping power is the contact area, so you don’t want to lose a couple mm.

I am talking about the pad thickness… ie the last 2mm or so pad thickness. Not the contact area. If you like a normal person change pads when they get low, then you wont have a problem, but if you like to wear them down to the rivits, then you might start grinding the bell away.

Somethings not right -

Are you talking front or rear ?

For the front if you use the right 295mm AP Rotor and make the bell correct there is no overlap …

With a correct design this should not happen.
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/AndrewDovey/57HJ0013.jpg[/image]


[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/AndrewDovey/57HJ0010.jpg[/image]

but look at the distance between the bolts and out to the outer bell circumfrence?

I dunno, all I can tell you is the brown rust ring is a few milimeters wide on mine and yours are close to a centimeter

…if you thought RS14s squealed on std. discs… you’ve heard nothing yet. These discs are grooved, not drilled, and so far (still kinda bedding them in) provide lots of stopping power.

I went with Muts Nuts like Uldis, and had the discs cryogenically treated… but the squealing is driving me mad - it only stops when on track at full blat (which for the audi is a lot of blat)

I am wondering why I am getting this problem with RS14s when I have been using them for years previously without the problem…

Is it the cryogenically treated steel?

PS I did properly bed them in - honest guv !!!

My RS14 squeal like an SoB too, much more than when I was using drilled rotors.

I have them cryogenically treated as well and there’s no relation to any disk, cryo or not.
Pagids RS14 will squeal.

But Ferodo DS2500 won’t (the ones I had one when you went as a pax with me at Croft)
Try them, they’re not bad.

For sure, RS14s have always squealed… but you think you know RS14s squealing until you hear mine with my APs

You done the Nick Adams ‘heat them up and stand on them’ trick to try and get them to form to the disk better?

Ian

I expect you DID hear mine the other day and thought it was a passing harrier jump jet…

\

Yep, done all the standing on the brakes I can muster…

I am now sending one to Geary to see if I’ve warped it

Warping: you’ll feel te pedal juddering when it’s hot. Coming back to normal when it’s cold

Uneven depositions: the pedal will judder all the time, but worse when it’s hot.
In both cases the pads will last much less.

Squealing: a loud, high pitched noise similar to the squeal of a pig, way above the audible pain threshold, attracting ridiculous looks from bystanders. They dissapear under hard braking and always come back with light brake applications.
It is due to the pad vibrating in its place. Try rubber strips on both internal sides of the caliper, where it would touch the pad backing plate.
This is only to hold it in its place and avoid micro-oscillatory movement.

Don’t confuse.

I have RS14s with mutnuts discs. Squeal with ridiculous volume when warm and with light pedal pressure. Pedestrians turn round with fingers in their ears!!

I’ve adopted a technique of standing on the brakes to slow to a crawl, then lifting off to coast up to junctions!

Thanks for the lesson Uldis, I did know the difference

Not only do they squeal like an iron-branded piggy, but they also feel like they’re pulsing (noticably) through the pedal when hot… but this could be due to a mounting issue rather than disc being warped.

SeanB/AndyD,

Do you have squeal on your 3000 series APs?

Ian

No mine don’t squeal, but I use Perfomance Friction pads. They are absolutly awesome!!!

Mine squeal quite alot with Mintex 1166 pads (as supplied by Motorsports). I’ve watched video of Motorsport cars and they all squeal too.