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Well… the RPM causes the heat… ;-)This is exactly why Geary has developed a lightweight race-style alternator. Its geared so its not stressed at higher RPM and its a shedload lighter than the orginal.Pic here: http://www.eliseparts.com/products_pages/springs/enginemount2.htm Cheers, Bri[This message has been edited by bdrought (edited 23 December 2002).]
Anybody know whether there’s any downside to using this lighter alternator? Reliability? Life Span? Power output?
Well I’ve now suffered the dreaded alternator burnout. Battery charge light came on at Elvington early after lunch and that was game over .Taken it out today and found that not only had one of the copper wires connecting to the brushes had come adrift but there were actually sections of the main winding loose inside, could see at least two sections about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long.It was an absolute bugger to get out with the top securing bolt fouling the heatshield and then the manifold.Am thinking about geary’s alternative one and will see what else is available at the Autosport show tomorrow…
Steve,Were the end of the brushes also badly chipped as well??Had that same fault at Nurburgring, the broken copper wire, it’s down to bouncing brushes due to the high RPMLet us all know how you get on with Gearys alternator!!! Nice and small and ooh look a bigger pulley on it!! Any one know if he sells just the pulley on it’s own?? [This message has been edited by Dave Kelly (edited 12 January 2003).]
[image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/confused.gif[/image]Spoke with Cambridge motorsport at the show today - the Nippon Denso unit they sell is the same unit that Brise, Eliseparts etc sell - they reckon those units are ok to 18K rpm … I had the 45 amp fitted to my mini and that was pulling 9.5K and it survived with a relative small pulley.Seems the solution is as Dave sayes buy a ND unit, fit Gearys pulley and heatsheild and the problem should be solved. [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image]
This is from the Elise BBS in reply to a query about the Eliseparts alt…sort of depends on what you do with the car.If your into night crusing around your locality etc. then it’s probably not for you!If it’s general use and track days then it is.I assume your looking at the kit on Geary site?This is using the same ND alt that Brise/DT/Cambridge Motorsport/etc. use, but with a properly engineed bracket adaptor (not the single sided crap) and custom made pulley. It still uses the std lenght alt belt and comes with a small wiring kit.I have been using this type for some time now, (orriginally a kit from Brise), and having bug-fixed the issues I had with them, they are a big improvement in both size and weight (you can change it one handed from the side/above/below).Only thing to note is that they are rated at 40A (they will supply 50A and this is how Brise rate them, but they are all the same and ND call them 40A) as opposed to the std item that’s 85A.This is not a problem unless your into driving at tickover all night with more lights than you can shake a stick at and the heater going full bore allong with your 4Kw ICE!Simon (S)BTW std alt is 5Kg’s (bare) the ND one is just under 2.5Kg’s I hope Simon doesn’t mind me copying his reply for those interested here.
quote:Originally posted by Dave Kelly:Steve,Were the end of the brushes also badly chipped as well??No they weren’t, just well worn for the mileage I had done.Didn’t realise Geay’s alternator was not the same output spec - shame its not mentioned on his site (unless I missed it!). I think I will have to sit down and calculate just what the full current draw will be with lights on, heater on full, wpiers going full pelt, etc and see if its anywhere near the 45amp mark. Doea anyone know how to calculate the running load the engine will draw for ECU, spark, etc without counting any accessories?[This message has been edited by stevegreen (edited 13 January 2003).]
We did a current draw test on brothers car and with everything on (well except cooling fan!!) we managed a draw of, I think it was around 58 Amps, add to that the cooling fan and wey hay, that’s getting pretty high!!Must admit I thought the standard Rover 200 alt might have been a cheaper alternative to the Lotus one but is only 65A and not 85A as we use. Having done the draw test I see why they plump for the big one!!!The best way to measure it is with an inductive amp clamp if you have one or if you know any friendly AA men, we use them every day, so have a word with him (or her!!)Just clamp round the Bat neg lead (alternator disabled) and load her up!!!oh even the position of the heater controls make a differance as the flappy bit is controled by solinoids instead of cables, clever these Lotie people!!![This message has been edited by Dave Kelly (edited 14 January 2003).]
The ND type alts are available with a 75 amp output as well - there just larger and heavier, Cambridge Motorsport quote 175 quid for all types IIRC.I would confirm with Geary what his is rated at …
Checked spec of alternators with Geary and Simon S was right they are specc’d at 40 amp hour. Not sure that these are enough and although Geary has been good and offered a trial, I thought I would play conservative and get a higher rated unit.Halfords were very helpful and had 2 alternatives on the counter 2 hours after a phone call. Unfortunately, neither was any good.So it was off to the local remanufacturer in Wakefield - �75 cash for a unit with the same spec. I left the old unit and returned in an hour for the new one. They had had a chance to strip the old one and seemed to be amazed at the poor state it was in. I made my excuses and left…It comes with a 12 month warranty (same as halfords) so hopefully it will either die within 11 months or go on solidly for 3 years…fingers crossed!
Steve,You should have picked their brains whilst you were there, they may have been able to offer advice on an alternative [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]
Just lifted this from the Lotus Life website … guess Simon wont mind … posted 25 January 2003 13:02 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------There are two reasons why they fail,1) Heat2) VibrationThe std one is a Rover part, (Magnet Marel1), P/N 63321238A.Normally the reg pack in the back fails.They are something like �200 new.There is an up-dated reg pack avaliable for them from Cargo (just about any factors will dieal with them) It’s a bolt-on replacement for the std item, P/N 136432. These seem to be less prone to vibration related faliure.Alternatively, you could change it for another type, The Motorsport cars used to run ND (Nippon Denso) Alts, they are avaliable in mush smaller/lighter form and seem far less suseptable to faliure. (although they are not imune to it!)Simon (S)HTH
quote:Originally posted by Phil Davies:Steve,You should have picked their brains whilst you were there, they may have been able to offer advice on an alternative [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/smile.gif[/image]Phil was keen to keep a 12 months warranty and didn’t want to go into too uch detail of off it was off and what the problems were…
If any of you need an alterntor I have one going at half the price of the new one. Its had 5000miles of use.cheers matt
Anybody want a new alternator for �25!!!or �500 towards unexpected repair bills up to 3 times a year!!“AA parts and labour cover” It’ll cost you �48 a year and all you pay is a �25 excess if you make a claim. Seems like a good alternative for those of you whose warrenty has expired.Anybody want more info, send me an e-mail with your address and if you are currently an AA member and I’ll send you details and application form or come and find me at Hethel on the 15th and I’ll sign you up. I’m the one with the Yellow Exige (well it had to be yellow didn’t it!!!)[This message has been edited by Dave Kelly (edited 14 February 2003).]
Dave, This sounds too good to be true!What is covered? can you send me the details and sign up form, or tell me where to get them.Many thanks.
Will that cover my car too [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image]Phil
Yes sorry people, I got the price wrong, it’s not �45 it �48/membership year.I’ll post a reply in a minute with brief details of cover. If you want the booklet with terms and conditions and application form, send me a mail with an address to send it to. Oh let me know if your not allready a member, cos you need to be, and I can do that as well.Wot A Very Nice Man [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/grin.gif[/image]
Briefly the cover consists of:- For AA members (personal cover or vehicle based) they can take out parts and labour cover for �48/membership year (pro-rata, i.e. �12 less than 3months remaining, �24 less than 6months, �36 9months etc) then, in the event of a breakdown and the vehicle needing the insured part to be repaired or replaced, subject to authorization of the claim, the repair cost will be covered up to a maximum of �500 of which you pay a �25 excess. For e.g… Alternator fails, car breaks down due to the battery going flat, AA patrol comes out, car is recovered to the garage, new alternator is say �400 and �100 labour to fit it, Total bill �500 of which you pay �25 and the garage claims �475 from the AA. Job done!!! And you can claim up to 3 times a year!!! Obviously there are exclusions for e.g. fair wear and tear, car must be under 10 years old and less than 100,000 miles etc Oh and there is one that says “Use of vehicle for any sort of competition, rallies or racing of any kind” but correct me if I’m wrong, track days are non competitive arn’t they, we are not allowed to race each other are we [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/wink.gif[/image] [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/wink.gif[/image] The cover is for an individual car and therefore 2 cars, 2 lots of �48. It’s not a full blown warranty where you can just drive your car into the garage and say fix that and the AA pick up the tab, but for things like a faulty gearbox, broken up clutch or release bearing (and we know how common that is!!), Alternators, starter motors, drive shafts, cooling system, brakes, steering, suspension, fuel system etc etc it’s a good cover to ease the cost of some of the more unexpected repair bills. I’ll send you a booklet about it together with a partially filled in form and the prepaid envelope to send it off with. Let me know if you are possibly wanting 2 cars covered and I’ll send 2 forms. All you’ll need to do is fill in the members name and address, AA membership number, your credit/debt card details, amount payable depending on when your membership expires (see above), Vehicle details, and a couple of signatures in the marked boxes.Hope this helps, I’m affraid the cover is not available through the AA’s web site as yet so you’ll need a form from me to get it. [image]http://www.exiges.com/ubb/NonCGI/images/icons/wink.gif[/image][This message has been edited by Dave Kelly (edited 14 February 2003).]