Carsten
really sorry to hear your bad news… hope you get it all fixed without too much pain.
Just to return to this thread… also a warning to others.
Basically what had happened was that pieces of shredded alt-belt got sucked up into the cam belt and made the inlet pulley jump a few teeth. Bent the valves, hance the metallic sound was valves meeting piston heads…
Soooo I basically killed my own engine trying to drive it myself instead of going via flatbed.
Also something to be wary of if your alternator siezes, shreds the belt and bits of debris fly around in there.
…but it was a good excuse to go hondaaa
Didn’t your cambelt have a cover?
I don’t see otherwise how the debris would get in there, as it’s normally completely covered.
Agreed…
Unless it managed to cause the crank to jump by seizing for a second kinda thing…
What, like when you spin and the rear tyres immediately revert direction?
Naaahhh!
I have been through 3 alternators in 59K miles. The original lasted 25K; a rebuild lasted 400 miles and another rebuild lasted 4K miles. Finally the repairer supplied a brand new one FOC.
I did some research and found this site which will be my next point of call for a new alternator, will consider increasing the size of the alternator pulley to reduce the rpm to ensure it is within the bearing speed limits. http://www.startermotors-alternators.com/Alt&Starter-Motorsport.htm
I will consider increasing the size of the alternator pulley to reduce the rpm to ensure it is within the bearing speed limits.
Followed your link and then again to the Powermaster site and came across this:
"When building a custom car from the ground up, a deeper understanding of the power curve of an alternator is required. Usually a custom pulley or so-called �power pulley� set is used with a performance alternator. A mismatched pulley ratio and alternator will spell trouble, especially at idle speeds where alternator performance is critical. To avoid this, it is important to understand the alternator�s capability at slow speeds.
An alternator�s output is dependent on speed, but this can be deceiving because this output is not linear. Instead, it follows a curve. Each alternator has a unique curve, and at idle small changes in the alternator�s speed can make a big difference in its output capacity.
Because of the preceding, pulley ratios are very important, especially when using high amperage alternators. The pulley that are supplied with the alternator are matched to the winding and power curve. It is important that any dress up pulley sets do not deviate from this ratio. Typically, a street driven car should have a pulley ratio of at least 3:1. Alternators can take high speeds up to 20,000 RPMs for short periods, so overdriving the unit is not a problem.
Output curves, engine idle speeds, and alternator pulley ratios are carefully considered to assure good drivability at idle and slow cruising speeds.
The alternator rotor RPM is not necessarily the same as engine RPM. To calculate the actual alternator RPM, determine the ratio between the two pulley diameters.
Ratio = Crankshaft Pulley Diameter/ Alternator Pulley Diameter
Now that we know the ratio, we can now determine the rotor speed:
Rotor RPM = Pulley Ratio x Engine Speed
(example; 2.1 x 870 = 1827 Rotor RPM)